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Routes in Reef Rock on Mica Mt.
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(1) J- Cubed T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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(2) Short Story T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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(3) Mystery Route T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a C1 PG13 |
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(4) Supergoat and the Singing Sardines T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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(5) Cryptic Friction T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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(5a) MC Runner T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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(6) Bombs Away T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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(7) Fiona's Feelin' Groovy T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, 650 ft (197 m), 4 pitches |
| FA: | Michael McClung, Joe Drago, J.Mw., 6/08 |
| Page Views: | 1,652 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | JMayhew on Sep 19, 2008 |
| Admins: | adrian montaño, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Description
1. Climb crack to a small ledge and belay. (5.8 170 ft.)
2. Continue up crack a short ways until you can diagonal left out of original crack along a flake/crack to main corner with a tricky exit move. Up easier ground to belay at the left end of large, jungle ledge. (5.8+ 160 ft.)
Shift belay right, thru jungle to base of flake system and chimney.
3. A tricky boulder move gains a long flake system that is to the left of the main chimney. At its top, diagonal right to another shorter flake/crack and belay on a small ledge under a shallow roof. (5.8+ 130 ft.)
4. Undercling right and turn corner, continuing along easier ground to the top. (5.9 180 ft.)
(Pitch 3 and 4 variation: Climb chimney. 5.7 FA JFx, Susan Brownell, JMw)
Descent: Head back and left down steep descent gully as for J- Cubed, or walk to far right end of the wall and rap Bombs Away.
2. Continue up crack a short ways until you can diagonal left out of original crack along a flake/crack to main corner with a tricky exit move. Up easier ground to belay at the left end of large, jungle ledge. (5.8+ 160 ft.)
Shift belay right, thru jungle to base of flake system and chimney.
3. A tricky boulder move gains a long flake system that is to the left of the main chimney. At its top, diagonal right to another shorter flake/crack and belay on a small ledge under a shallow roof. (5.8+ 130 ft.)
4. Undercling right and turn corner, continuing along easier ground to the top. (5.9 180 ft.)
(Pitch 3 and 4 variation: Climb chimney. 5.7 FA JFx, Susan Brownell, JMw)
Descent: Head back and left down steep descent gully as for J- Cubed, or walk to far right end of the wall and rap Bombs Away.
Location
At the middle of the wall is a huge block that rests on the main wall. This route starts in a long crack that is to the right and behind this block. The last 2 pitches finish just left of a long, obvious orange stain that is clearly visible from the trail. 4th class up to a small nook with a tree at the base of the crack.
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