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> 8 - Summit Crags
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> Orifice Wall
Orifice Politics
5.12c YDS 7b+ French 27 Ewbanks IX- UIAA 27 ZA E6 6b British
Avg: 3.8 from 74
votes
Routes in Orifice Wall
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Another Word For Eureka S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Ape Debate S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Brightest Fire, The S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Coup d'etat S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Davin's Route (Teegerstrong) S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Disfigured Foreigner S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Disfigured Oedipus S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Eureka S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Flyer Starter S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Gettin' Off The Porch S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Granite of the Apes S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Hard Day at The Orifice S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Harder Day (AKA Hard Day Direct) S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Heel-A Monster S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Hereiophobia T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Huck Fin S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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In Search of Silence S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Oedipus Complex S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Orifice Politics S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Taking a Kneebar S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Unattended Consequences S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Unknown S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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| Type: | Sport, 105 ft (32 m) |
| FA: | EFR,Vince Bates Josie Becker,Geir Hundal, '08 |
| Page Views: | 14,228 total · 72/month |
| Shared By: | 1Eric Rhicard on Sep 16, 2008 |
| Admins: | adrian montaño, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Access Issue: Potentially unavailable to climbing February through July if raptors are breeding here.
Details
This area is historically used by nesting falcons, hawks, owls or other raptors. Breeding season varies but is roughly February through July. Nesting raptors are protected by law.
If you aren't sure if raptors are breeding here, then listen and watch for defensive behavior such as screeching or diving (links to info). If raptors are breeding in this area please climb somewhere else and let other climbers know.
Pressures on wildlife can be immense and are multiplied by effects of climate change and pollutants. Choosing to climb away from nest sites reduces unnecessary stresses to the birds. Give these animals a chance to thrive.
More info here: theclimbershome.org/breedin…
If you aren't sure if raptors are breeding here, then listen and watch for defensive behavior such as screeching or diving (links to info). If raptors are breeding in this area please climb somewhere else and let other climbers know.
Pressures on wildlife can be immense and are multiplied by effects of climate change and pollutants. Choosing to climb away from nest sites reduces unnecessary stresses to the birds. Give these animals a chance to thrive.
More info here: theclimbershome.org/breedin…
Description
This is a line I have looked at since 1996. The first forty feet had been started by Mark Hathaway so I stayed off of it. In 2001 I bolted a hard variation finish in an effort not to ruffle Marks feathers but still allow me to climb this face. Mark worked it some in 2001 but as far as I know that was it. This year Vince called and asked if he could work the route which was pretty nice since almost no work that I know of has been done on it in years. Mark said yes and so Vince and I started working the route with my alternate finish. Vince figured out the first crux (the Mary Poppins move) which I had never done til this year. Thanks to a little cleaning to consolidate the kitty litter it is pretty reasonable now. Vince has done the route with my original finish which has a harder crux higher up with one hang. Today we bolted the line that I had always envisioned which goes straight up a big flake then turns the bulge and up a less steep but still overhanging headwall. So after twelve years of looking at it and few dozen tries at the crux I finally got to climb it on my second run. It is a great line with a wild crux slightly less than half way up. The rest of the climb is an enduro fest that took knee bars and arm bars to make it go. Will have to wait for others opinions but for twelve years I have said it is one of the most striking lines in Tucson and that is why I am so thrilled to finally climb it. Hey the guidelines say deepest thoughts. Not that deep maybe but they are my thoughts.
P.S. The swing off of this route is even better than Hard Day. Climb up to the second bolt step left make sure you have as much stretch out of the rope as possible then cut loose.
P.S. The swing off of this route is even better than Hard Day. Climb up to the second bolt step left make sure you have as much stretch out of the rope as possible then cut loose.
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