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Radioactive Porksickle
5.13- YDS 7c+ French 29 Ewbanks IX+ UIAA 29 ZA E7 6c British
Avg: 4 from 1
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Routes in Physics Department
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Blood Hush T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Engine Bloc, The V8 7B |
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Radioactive Porksickle T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Strong Muons T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Weak Bosons T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, 215 ft (65 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Matt Lisenby, Will Hays, Ryan Cowan |
| Page Views: | 2,601 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Matt Lisenby on Sep 12, 2008 |
| Admins: | slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
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Access Issue: Sheep Aware
Details
Long canyon serves as important habitat for Utah's only endemic herd of Desert Bighorn Sheep. Please be respectful of wild sheep and other wildlife by maintaining a quiet atmosphere and keeping at least 100 meters from animals. Desert Bighorn Sheep are especially sensitive to disturbance between April 1st - June 15th when they are raising their young. Consider limiting your disturbance during this time period by climbing in other areas. You may notice water catchment systems in strategic locations to provide water for wildlife in Long canyon. One of these exists near the trail to Maverick Buttress.
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
This is an Awesome route, worthy of some traffic. The line itself is unmistakable from below. Bring two ropes - its been a while and my recollection of pitch & rappel lengths may be off - please comment if they are not right!
P1 5.12b/c: Start near a wide crack a few feet right of Weak Bosons. Clip a bolt to cross the face to the right. Follow a handcrack in a dihedral up to a diminishing left arching crack that eventually pinches to nothing. At the top of the arch get into the dihedral and try to get your breath back before the thin and technical dihedral crux - protected by some pretty small cams. A calculator and one of those brainstorm paper pads might help solve this crux. Save a yellow metolius TCU for the pod past the crux. Belay a little higher at the anchor on the ledge ~100'.
P2 5.13-: Tips & finger lock 12' up a steep, strenuous crack to an unlikely traverse to the right at the bottom of a splitter seam with some rectangular pods. Solid but small, 00 TCU(s) protect(s) the traverse. Once traversed use the arete and the crack, move up until you can get a finger into the widening seam, then square up and campus a few tips & finger locks to easier finger locking. Continue up the fingercrack through a couple of bulges to the business - a final bulge where the fingercrack leans left, gets slick, and overhangs the most. Ibuprofen is cheap, just do it. over the bulge, juke left at a flake/roof and get into the unlikely pod for a quick rest. A thin (Blue Metolius TCU) short 5.11 section is between you and the anchors. Good times!
P1 5.12b/c: Start near a wide crack a few feet right of Weak Bosons. Clip a bolt to cross the face to the right. Follow a handcrack in a dihedral up to a diminishing left arching crack that eventually pinches to nothing. At the top of the arch get into the dihedral and try to get your breath back before the thin and technical dihedral crux - protected by some pretty small cams. A calculator and one of those brainstorm paper pads might help solve this crux. Save a yellow metolius TCU for the pod past the crux. Belay a little higher at the anchor on the ledge ~100'.
P2 5.13-: Tips & finger lock 12' up a steep, strenuous crack to an unlikely traverse to the right at the bottom of a splitter seam with some rectangular pods. Solid but small, 00 TCU(s) protect(s) the traverse. Once traversed use the arete and the crack, move up until you can get a finger into the widening seam, then square up and campus a few tips & finger locks to easier finger locking. Continue up the fingercrack through a couple of bulges to the business - a final bulge where the fingercrack leans left, gets slick, and overhangs the most. Ibuprofen is cheap, just do it. over the bulge, juke left at a flake/roof and get into the unlikely pod for a quick rest. A thin (Blue Metolius TCU) short 5.11 section is between you and the anchors. Good times!
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