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Routes in South Cliffband
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Acid Rain S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Another Lichen Nightmare S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Crackerjack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Crystal Suppository S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Dreamscape T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Dynabolic S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Finger in the Socket S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Illusion Dissolution S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Just Say No to Crack S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Leslie's Little Fingers (Atsa) S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Prow, The S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Rocket in My Pocket S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Sanadine Dream S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Shadowdancer S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Unnamed S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | Jean DeLataillade, Doug Pandorf |
| Page Views: | 1,912 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Brian Quiter on Sep 8, 2008 |
| Admins: | Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
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Description
Climb the converging double cracks for about 15 feet. Both are splitter, and neither provide solid jams. After they converge, deal with the sustained tiny finger crack (crux) for about 25 feet. This crack is generally too small for fingers, but the offset faces provide lieback opportunities. The crack finally bends right and get steeper and wider as you reach slightly overhung hands jams to the progressively wider and steeper finish.
Combining face and crack techniques is probably best for conquering your dreamscape.
Combining face and crack techniques is probably best for conquering your dreamscape.
Location
Between Shadowdancer and Another Lichen Nightmare on the north-facing face right of the obvious (and classic) Prow (5.11).
Protection
Single cams to 3" and plenty of nuts should suffice for leading. Top anchor options include Another Lichen Nightmare's bolted anchor about 15' to the left, Shadowdancer's bolted anchor 15' to the right, or big trees about 30' back from the cliff's edge (and a bunch of cacti for your rope to get into between the trees and the cliff).
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