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Routes in Wall of the '90s
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.30-06 T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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7-Minute Abs S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Alone Time with my Banana S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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American Mustang S 5.14a/b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b |
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Black and Tan S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Casual Stone S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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Centerfold S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Creekside Prophet S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Curvaceous S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Double Stout S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Double Stout (w/ extension, AKA Imperial Stout) S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Foxy S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Goin' The Distance S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Harlot S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Hellcat S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Hey Good Lookin' S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Hot Stuff S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Interstellar Overdrive S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Leftover Stuff S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Little Kitten S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Mission Impossible S 5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b |
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Mission Overdrive S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b |
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Mission Plausible S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Porn Queen S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Pretty Woman S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Recovery S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Reefer Madness S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Roadrunner T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Slender Babe S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Slinky S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Stone Free S,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R |
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Sweet Thing S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Ten-Digit Dialing S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Vixen S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Wet Dream S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Wiled Horses T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Y2K S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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| Type: |
Trad, 115 ft (35 m)
Fixed Hardware
(6) |
| FA: | Darren Mabe, August '08 |
| Page Views: | 5,652 total · 29/month |
| Shared By: | Darren Mabe on Aug 28, 2008 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
Please be aware of the annual raptor seasonal closures!
Raptor Closures Effective February 1-July 31
Visit: jeffco.us/open-space/news/2…
Tunnel 1 closure
For more details visit: jeffco.us/open-space/alerts…
The two areas Jefferson County Open Space intends to close in Clear Creek Canyon, shown on the attached maps, encompass the active eagle nests. If the Clear Creek eagles continue to nest in the active nests, these areas will remain closed from February 1 through July 31. If the eagles choose different nesting sites, the closures will be adjusted accordingly to protect those eagles during their breeding season.
Currently, rock climbing areas that fall inside of the seasonal raptor closures include:
Blonde Formation
Bumbling Stock
Evil Area
Ghost Crag
Highlander
Skinny Legs
Stumbling Block
Tetanus Garden
Fault Caves
Raptor Closures Effective February 1-July 31
Visit: jeffco.us/open-space/news/2…
Tunnel 1 closure
For more details visit: jeffco.us/open-space/alerts…
The two areas Jefferson County Open Space intends to close in Clear Creek Canyon, shown on the attached maps, encompass the active eagle nests. If the Clear Creek eagles continue to nest in the active nests, these areas will remain closed from February 1 through July 31. If the eagles choose different nesting sites, the closures will be adjusted accordingly to protect those eagles during their breeding season.
Currently, rock climbing areas that fall inside of the seasonal raptor closures include:
Blonde Formation
Bumbling Stock
Evil Area
Ghost Crag
Highlander
Skinny Legs
Stumbling Block
Tetanus Garden
Fault Caves
Description
Wiled Horses gone free! This is a link-up/variation that climbs the first half of .30-06, through a 15' ceiling, to the second half of Roadrunner.
Follow the initial crack of .30-06 to the imposing roof, 10-. Powerful, dynamic, and long crux moves through the ceiling (V6-V7?) to a wild mantle (V5-V6?). I placed two protection bolts in the roof, but you still need a piece for the mantle crux at the lip. Don't blow the second clip in the roof.
Once over the lip, a bolt (there is an old useless 'mystery' bolt above the roof, skip this one and clip the new one) protects an exposed traverse into the fingers/thin-hands crux of Roadrunner finishing with wide hand crack to the anchors, 10+.
Do what you can to minimize rope drag as the zigs and zags weigh you down.
Disclaimer: Crux moves rating is height-dependent. Maybe more like 5.12e. For crude comparison sake, I think the roof moves are considerably harder than Great Escape, Brennivin, Mighty Dog, and Rocketman. This is the hardest mixed line in the canyon.
Much thanks to Casey for his belays on my initial exploratory efforts, and patience while I drilled the bolts and worked the moves. Thanks to Mel for her belays on my redpoint attempts. And thanks to Adam for the silky belay and encouragement on my final redpoint.
Follow the initial crack of .30-06 to the imposing roof, 10-. Powerful, dynamic, and long crux moves through the ceiling (V6-V7?) to a wild mantle (V5-V6?). I placed two protection bolts in the roof, but you still need a piece for the mantle crux at the lip. Don't blow the second clip in the roof.
Once over the lip, a bolt (there is an old useless 'mystery' bolt above the roof, skip this one and clip the new one) protects an exposed traverse into the fingers/thin-hands crux of Roadrunner finishing with wide hand crack to the anchors, 10+.
Do what you can to minimize rope drag as the zigs and zags weigh you down.
Disclaimer: Crux moves rating is height-dependent. Maybe more like 5.12e. For crude comparison sake, I think the roof moves are considerably harder than Great Escape, Brennivin, Mighty Dog, and Rocketman. This is the hardest mixed line in the canyon.
Much thanks to Casey for his belays on my initial exploratory efforts, and patience while I drilled the bolts and worked the moves. Thanks to Mel for her belays on my redpoint attempts. And thanks to Adam for the silky belay and encouragement on my final redpoint.
Protection
Stoppers, #0.3 up to #2 Camalot, and two #3 Camalots for the upper crack. Back up the shitty ring pin for your first piece off the ground. There is one other pin midway up the initial crack.
Two protection bolts in the ceiling, as there is no clean pro until the lip. Another new bolt above the lip to link to the crack.
Lower off with a 70m rope.
Two protection bolts in the ceiling, as there is no clean pro until the lip. Another new bolt above the lip to link to the crack.
Lower off with a 70m rope.
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