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Utah
> Wasatch Range
> Central Wasatch
> Little Cottonwo…
> Gate Buttress
> E Gate Buttress
Wild Things
5.11c YDS 6c+ French 24 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British
Avg: 3 from 5
votes
Routes in East Gate Buttress
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Ankle Biters S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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B-Positive S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Bald Headed Babies S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Bald Headed Beer Drinkers T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Blooddrive T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Bloodline T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13 |
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Bloodsport T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Cabeza de Pollo T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Christopher of the Everglades T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Clay, Like Dirt S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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El Camino Torcido T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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El Chollo T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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El Guapo T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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El Pipe Dream T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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El Segundo T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Flakes, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Gran Hermano T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Graying at the Routes S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Keelhaul T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Narrow Horizons T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Negro Modelo T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Only Human Var. T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Oye Cómo Va T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Plasma T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Purple Horizons T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Ripping Wall, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Route Left of Snowflakes S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Sidekick T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Sidewinder T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Skilled Passage T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Snowflakes T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Speed Of Life T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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Stradler T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Super Ramp, The S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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To Air is Human T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Wild Things T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, 50 ft (15 m) |
| FA: | John Storm, 1986 |
| Page Views: | 2,960 total · 15/month |
| Shared By: | Zac Robinson on Aug 26, 2008 |
| Admins: | Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
Awesome route high up on the East Gate. Steep hands into a slot. In the back of the slot is a hand to finger crack. Work your way up the slot the best you can. I think I spun 3 or 4 times on my way up trying to figure out what might be the best approach.
Up above, the slot narrows to a squeeze and the crack in the back turns into a horizontal finger crack. Now is the time to get serious. Make the decision which way to face and then change your mind a few times. Work the finger crack, which has now slammed shut, out through the horizontal section.
Then figure out the beta to get to the nice, relaxing, less-than-vertical handcrack above the crux.
Up above, the slot narrows to a squeeze and the crack in the back turns into a horizontal finger crack. Now is the time to get serious. Make the decision which way to face and then change your mind a few times. Work the finger crack, which has now slammed shut, out through the horizontal section.
Then figure out the beta to get to the nice, relaxing, less-than-vertical handcrack above the crux.
Protection
good gear the whole way.
a few hands pieces for the initial section (#1 and 2 camalots)
I placed a #3 at the start of the slot and then some fingers pieces down to a blue TCU on your way out the steep section. Another 1-2 #2's and perhaps a #3 cam would be nice for the handcrack above and for building a belay anchor.
Head over left to the top of The Flakes and rap down the anchor there.
a few hands pieces for the initial section (#1 and 2 camalots)
I placed a #3 at the start of the slot and then some fingers pieces down to a blue TCU on your way out the steep section. Another 1-2 #2's and perhaps a #3 cam would be nice for the handcrack above and for building a belay anchor.
Head over left to the top of The Flakes and rap down the anchor there.
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