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California
> Joshua Tree NP
> Lost Horse Area
> Lost Horse Wall
> Lost Horse Wall - Rig…
Altitude Sickness
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 1.3 from 12
votes
Routes in Lost Horse Wall - Right Side
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Armor Plated Unicorn T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Conspiracy of Ravens T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Gossamer Wings T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Wilson Regular Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R |
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China Plates T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Altitude Sickness T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Swift, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Bird on a Wire T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Hairline Fracture T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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City Slickers T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Dappled Mare T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Roan Way T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Mare's Tail T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Lost and Found T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 250 ft (76 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Tom Bombaci, Chet Wade '87 |
| Page Views: | 2,062 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Ryan Kelly on Aug 26, 2008 |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest |
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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
An ok roof bypass that unfortunately involves a pitch and a half of uninteresting climbing to get there. A variation exists passing the roof on the left (5.9-ish) but it doesn't look as fun as going under on the right side.
P1: (5.6?) Follow the first half of the first pitch on the Swift (if doing it in two pitches), then veer left and work up some easy 5.0 with a few small sections of more moderate climbing, depending on the path you take. Youre aiming for the roof at the top. Setup belay just about anywhere.
P2: (5.10a) Follow any of several paths up towards the prominent roof, though the crack leading straight underneath it is probably best. Theres a right-slanting hand-sized crack under the roof that allows passage to the right and over. The crack is a bit gritty still, but with some traffic it could turn into a fun route. Plenty of opportunity to setup belay on the slabs above.
Longish scramble off to climbers right.
P1: (5.6?) Follow the first half of the first pitch on the Swift (if doing it in two pitches), then veer left and work up some easy 5.0 with a few small sections of more moderate climbing, depending on the path you take. Youre aiming for the roof at the top. Setup belay just about anywhere.
P2: (5.10a) Follow any of several paths up towards the prominent roof, though the crack leading straight underneath it is probably best. Theres a right-slanting hand-sized crack under the roof that allows passage to the right and over. The crack is a bit gritty still, but with some traffic it could turn into a fun route. Plenty of opportunity to setup belay on the slabs above.
Longish scramble off to climbers right.
Location
Start as for The Swift, up the ramp and traversing right under the headwall (if you protect its going to cut your pitch short). Go up the small chimney and break off of The Swift heading left, then up towards the roof at the top. The first pitch goes up easy broken terrain, theres no real defined path until you get close to the roof.
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