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Two-Edged Sword
5.10d,
Trad, 60 ft (18 m),
Avg: 3.5 from 2
votes
FA: FA with aid Rick Skidmore, Steve Erskine 1978; FFA Cal Swoager, Mike Artz, Andrew Barry 1985
W Virginia
> New River Gorge…
> New River Gorge…
> Bridge Area
> 3 Maranatha Area
Access Issue: NO DRONES ON NATIONAL PARKLANDS
Details
All of the crags within the New River Gorge proper are on national parklands, and drone use is prohibited here. There has been some discussion about places to launch drones that are not on park property, and then flying them over the gorge. This is super poor form; don't do it. Park regulations prohibit all drone use over the boundaries without a permit.
Description
This route has a tricky start, as the feet are pretty minimal and you may need to jump to reach the first hold. Follow the thin crack to reach the first overhang. Finger lock in the only slot in the roof and stem to reach the protruding corner to gain a stance up and left. Climb up and cross the corner to reach the next overhang with a finger crack in it. Pull this overhang and follow a dirty face to the finish. This route is very sustained for 5.10d. The moves are very unique with good gear.
Location
As you follow the trail toward the South Bridge Area from the Main Bridge area, this is one of the first routes you encounter as you reach the cliff. Locate a small spring that runs out of the rock and over the trail. Start the climb above the drainage from the spring.
Protection
Stoppers and small cams, 1" or less. Shuts. A few Tri Cams may also be nice. Bolted anchor.
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