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The Godfather
5.11a/b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British PG13
Avg: 3 from 5
votes
Routes in Arrowhead
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Airhead T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Arrowplane T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Artemis T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Bequeathed T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Country Life T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Diamond Back T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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East Face/Arrowhead T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Full Metal Jacket T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Gimme Shelter T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Glacier Gorge Traverse T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Godfather, The T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Ithaca T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Lost Arrowhead T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Orange Pillar T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Rain Dance T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Ramp Tramp T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Refugium T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Ripsaw/Northeast Ridge T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Shaft, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Shoshone T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Sidewinder T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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South Ramp T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c |
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Thai Hot T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c C1 R |
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V-Free T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Warhead T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Watership Down T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 800 ft (242 m), 5 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Bernard Gillett & John Gillett, 2003, TR BG, 2000. |
| Page Views: | 1,310 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | David A. Turner on Aug 22, 2008 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Closures
Details
Seasonal closures Feb. 15-July 31. Per the Denver Post:, the Cathedral Wall and all areas above the Loch Vale-Sky Pond Trail are closed to off-trail travel! Per this RMNP website, "Initial closures now occur in Feb. 15 and April, when raptors return to the region and scout for nesting sites. Areas containing general habitat preferred by raptors are closed during this time. Once raptors have selected nesting spots, the initial closures are lifted or adjusted. The specific areas which raptors choose for nesting sites are closed."
For additional information about raptor closures, please visit the Rocky Mountain National Parks area closures website.
General NPS climbing regulations for RMNP posted here.
For additional information about raptor closures, please visit the Rocky Mountain National Parks area closures website.
General NPS climbing regulations for RMNP posted here.
Description
Athough I gave this route 3 stars for overall quality, that is because it starts with the first two pitches of Arrowplane, which are good, but not outstanding IMHO. If Godfather were a stand alone route, it would easily merit four stars because the last two pitches are superb.
Pitch 1: Climb the first pitch of Arrowplane. Good beta I got for finding this pitch was to look for a shallow dihedral left of the prominent water streak. 5.8+ R; 180'.
Pitch 2: Climb the second pitch of Arrowplane. 5.9-; 150'.
Pitch 3: Start up the third pitch of Arrowplane. After the undercling, head up left to the prominent, right-facing dihedrals. Start up the rightmost dihedral, and then step into the left dihedral to its top. Step left again into cracks leading to a large ledge. 5.9+; 195'.
Pitch 4: Climb the crack to the right of the ledge, which peters out to face climbing protected by two bolts to a two bolt anchor (slightly sporty). 5.11a; 100'
Pitch 5: Climb the traversing tips crack (5.11a/b, good gear) to the continuous, flaring hand crack (solid 5.10). At its end, continue up to the overhangs. Climb the first, smaller overhang on its right side, hand traverse the second larger overhang to its left end, and then climb back right to the top of the wall (5.8+ R). 160'.
Pitch 1: Climb the first pitch of Arrowplane. Good beta I got for finding this pitch was to look for a shallow dihedral left of the prominent water streak. 5.8+ R; 180'.
Pitch 2: Climb the second pitch of Arrowplane. 5.9-; 150'.
Pitch 3: Start up the third pitch of Arrowplane. After the undercling, head up left to the prominent, right-facing dihedrals. Start up the rightmost dihedral, and then step into the left dihedral to its top. Step left again into cracks leading to a large ledge. 5.9+; 195'.
Pitch 4: Climb the crack to the right of the ledge, which peters out to face climbing protected by two bolts to a two bolt anchor (slightly sporty). 5.11a; 100'
Pitch 5: Climb the traversing tips crack (5.11a/b, good gear) to the continuous, flaring hand crack (solid 5.10). At its end, continue up to the overhangs. Climb the first, smaller overhang on its right side, hand traverse the second larger overhang to its left end, and then climb back right to the top of the wall (5.8+ R). 160'.
Location
This route is on the sunny south face of Arrowhead. We looked for the arches that comprise Ithaca, et al, aiming for their lowest spot. After finding the shallow dihedral left of the prominent water streak that marks the first pitch of Arrowplane, the rest was easy.
An obvious landmark for the route is the "J Crack" of the last pitch. It is easy to spot, waaay up high on a golden granite shield of rock.
Descend the South Ramp.
An obvious landmark for the route is the "J Crack" of the last pitch. It is easy to spot, waaay up high on a golden granite shield of rock.
Descend the South Ramp.
Protection
Lots of wired stoppers, from RPs on up. Double cams from smallest through number 2 Camalots. One number 3 & one number 4 Camalot. QDs and a good number of long slings. I recommend a 70 meter rope given the length of some of the pitches.
Although this route has some R climbing on it, if you are competent for the crux pitches the runouts will feel PG-13. However, as always, exercise good judgment.
Although this route has some R climbing on it, if you are competent for the crux pitches the runouts will feel PG-13. However, as always, exercise good judgment.
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