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Jane

5.7+, Trad, 80 ft (24 m),  Avg: 2.1 from 56 votes
FA: Jim Kolocotronis and Tom Rosecrans, 1973
New York > Gunks > Trapps > b. Jackie & friends

Description

Climb the left crack of a two-crack system past a block that looks terribly loose but isn't, up into a few chimney moves, then right and up to the easily protected overhang (crux). The face climbing above is 5.7 PG, with uninspiring gear. Traverse left to the Ape Call belay/rap station or right to the Raubenheimer Special tree.

Location

On a face just left of RMC's chimney.

Protection

Standard Gunks rack.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Start of Jane
[Hide Photo] Start of Jane
Jeff Arliss on Jane
[Hide Photo] Jeff Arliss on Jane

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Paul Shultz
Hudson, Ma
 
[Hide Comment] Fun up to the ceiling, and a few moves above the ceiling. I actually used the first tree, maybe 50 feet up, but don't regret it. May 13, 2009
Kurtz
Fort Collins, CO
 
[Hide Comment] I've finished both ways and it's much better IMHO to go to the 2nd tree. The moves on the on the upper face are thin and exciting. Too bad the route isn't longer. Jun 15, 2014
micah richard
Litchfield, Connecticut
[Hide Comment] Always been a bit confused about this. Is the start to jane the same as what is commonly known as the start to r.m.c.? This has the loose flake horn thing before the corner roof thing where you traverse out right? I think the proper start of R.M.C. is to the right, on the easy stacked block feature. Or does jane start more to the left of both? Jun 19, 2014
Dan Katz
New York, NY
[Hide Comment] A bit confused on the grade - The Swain guidebook has this at 5.8, MP says 5.7+, and Gunks App says 5.6? Anybody know whether Gunks App is listing a variation of the traditional line? Apr 18, 2017
Eriks Rozners
Binghamton, NY
  5.7+ PG13
[Hide Comment] Great climbing all the way through the small overhang. The face above is also fun - thin and exciting, but I found myself way too high over my last gear, which was a 00 C3. May be I missed a placement in all the climbing excitement? If so it is at least PG, if not it was clearly R. Otherwise, it was a great climb, but not a good place to be if the grade is close to your lead limit. The Gunks App got the grade all wrong on this one IMHO. Jun 4, 2017
MojoMonkey
 
[Hide Comment] I thought the upper face was tougher than the listed overhang crux. Or maybe that was mental influence because of the gear? I'm in the same boat as Eriks Rozners above - the gear I had was on the small side and would not be confidence inspiring if this climb is near your limit. Nov 6, 2017
WF WF51
5.8 R
[Hide Comment] Done this three times. The climbing after the roof - the last 15 feet or so of face climbing - is close in difficulty to that of the crux and the protection is not good. 5.8- R. Apr 17, 2021
Tania Harsono
Boston, MA
 
[Hide Comment] I don't think I've ever not enjoyed a route in the Gunks... But I really didn't like the upper section of Jane after the ceiling (aka where RMC & Jane diverge). Pine needles on footholds made the face climbing feel sketchy, and trying to jam on extraordinarily super rough conglomerate felt excruciating esp without tape/gloves. Also we picked Jane bc the book said we could rap off via Betty's 2nd rap station, but we had shenanigans trying to make the traverse bc it was very very dirty and unprotected. Oct 10, 2022