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Ent Line

5.11-, Trad, TR, 80 ft (24 m),  Avg: 2.8 from 129 votes
FA: John Bragg, Bob Murray, and Mark Robinson (1979)
New York > Gunks > Trapps > i. High E

Description

This pumpy route climbs the face left of Ants' Line. Start to the left of the tree, make some 10d moves, and join Ants' Line at its crux. Going up directly to the bolt anchor ups the ante to 11b.

Protection

Often top-roped -- one can access the two-bolt anchor via Ants' Line or Sleepwalk. Otherwise, standard rack with some small pieces.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Kenny below at the low crux
[Hide Photo] Kenny below at the low crux
Ent's Line 5.11b Gunks ~1994
[Hide Photo] Ent's Line 5.11b Gunks ~1994

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Chris Duca
Dixfield, ME
  5.10d R
[Hide Comment] Despite the R rating, if you have a cool head, and don't mind well spaced, yet solid, gear and a 15-20 foot runout at the end, this route should be in the bag for ya.

A great line up a beautiful piece of rock. Start on the left side of the Ent tree grown into the foot of the wall. The route consists of a devious and sequential crux about 35 feet up followed by a nice rest out right, then hard moves to gain the large horizontal. The pump crux and runout appear above the horizontal where the difficulty options present themselves to you. Aug 23, 2008
Jon Clark
Planet Earth
  5.11- R
[Hide Comment] The direct finish is the way to go as it keeps the climb as an independent line. If you pitch when pulling over the roof you will likely hit the tree and the ledge. Jul 18, 2011
[Hide Comment] i thought this route was more of a pg rating? seemed like it takes pretty good gear most the way. Dec 3, 2012
[Hide Comment] I think the R may come more from the tree and even the ledge then any lack of gear. There is a good portion of the climb if you come off there is a good chance of hitting the tree. Dec 3, 2012
Christopher Payan
EL PASO, TX
  5.10d PG13
[Hide Comment] The crux of this route is soo much fun, definitely one of the best 5.10d routes in the gunks. I think the ledge/tree increased the enjoyment. I was scared making those moves with gear a ways below, but kept calm and a thank-you jug awaits. Bold for sure, I haven't tried the direct version. Apr 29, 2014
Clay Thomas
Boston, Mass.
[Hide Comment] One clarification: for the 10d version, stay on the face until just below the roof, and pull into ant's line just *above* the crux of ant's line (the small triangle roof). About 20 feet lower, there are two huge jugs on the face that take you very close to ant's line (and offer an early escape from ent's line) but the 10d version stays on the face above these jugs Nov 6, 2019