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> Sheriff's Badge
Borderline
5.10d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 3.3 from 177
votes
Routes in The Sheriff's Badge
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Angel's Crest T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Inseam, The T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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High Plains Drifter T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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French Free S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A1 |
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Borderline T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Quickdraw S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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A Fine Line T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Blazing Saddles T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Astronomy T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Daily Planet, The T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Daily Universe, The T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Cowboys and Indians T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A3 |
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| Type: | Trad, 600 ft (182 m), 6 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Susan Bolton, David Harris, Eric Hirst (May-Aug '97) |
| Page Views: | 16,280 total · 80/month |
| Shared By: | Andy Laakmann on Aug 17, 2008 |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
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Access Issue: SIGNIFICANT ROCK FALL CLOSURES - UPDATED Feb 29th 2024
Details
For the most up-to-date information about closures in the Stawamus Chief Park, please refer to the following link: bcparks.ca/stawamus-chief-p…
The closures posted on this Mountain Project page are the latest according to the date mentioned above.
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TRAIL TO THE PROW AND ECHELON WALL VIA THE SHERIFF'S BADGE CLOSURE
Due to a rockfall event on April 17, 2023, the approach/access trail to the Prow and Echelon wall via the Sheriff’s Badge have been impacted. Please stay out of this area until the full extent of this event has been determined.
Posted April 17, 2023
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Due to multiple significant rockfalls in the North Wall, Slhanay, Grand Wall, and Western Dihedrals climbing areas of Stawamus Chief, a large number of climbing routes and bouldering areas are currently closed until further notice. Efforts are underway to assess and remove hazards in the hopes of opening some of these areas soon.
NORTH WALL CLOSURE
The following routes in this area remain closed until further notice due to a large rock fall event. All routes between Lunar Tide and Polaris on the upper Zodiac Wall, as well as all routes between Parallel Universe and Polaris on the Lower Zodiac Wall. The Climb known as Angel’s Crest is open, please be cautions on the approach and avoid the debris field to the left.
Climbing Route Closure Map: nrs.objectstore.gov.bc.ca/k…
GRAND WALL BOULDERS CLOSURE
Due to hazards created by significant rockfall events the following bouldering areas(and associated trails) remain closed until further notice. Lipsmack: Black Sabbath & Halfway Around the world, Octogon: Kemoslabby and Viper: Old and Serious, Beachcomber & Towlie.
Boudlering Closure Map: nrs.objectstore.gov.bc.ca/k…
WESTERN DIHEDRALS CLOSURE
Due to hazards created by significant rockfall events the following climbing routes between Teenage wasteland and Deadend Dihedral remain closed until further notice. Including: The Black Dyke, The Gauntlet, The Façade, Sticky Fingers, Sunset Strip, Millenium Falcon, Rutabaga, Turnip Arrowroot, and Europa.
Climbing Route Closure Map: nrs.objectstore.gov.bc.ca/k…
Updated June 30, 2023
The closures posted on this Mountain Project page are the latest according to the date mentioned above.
––––––––––
TRAIL TO THE PROW AND ECHELON WALL VIA THE SHERIFF'S BADGE CLOSURE
Due to a rockfall event on April 17, 2023, the approach/access trail to the Prow and Echelon wall via the Sheriff’s Badge have been impacted. Please stay out of this area until the full extent of this event has been determined.
Posted April 17, 2023
––––––––––
Due to multiple significant rockfalls in the North Wall, Slhanay, Grand Wall, and Western Dihedrals climbing areas of Stawamus Chief, a large number of climbing routes and bouldering areas are currently closed until further notice. Efforts are underway to assess and remove hazards in the hopes of opening some of these areas soon.
NORTH WALL CLOSURE
The following routes in this area remain closed until further notice due to a large rock fall event. All routes between Lunar Tide and Polaris on the upper Zodiac Wall, as well as all routes between Parallel Universe and Polaris on the Lower Zodiac Wall. The Climb known as Angel’s Crest is open, please be cautions on the approach and avoid the debris field to the left.
Climbing Route Closure Map: nrs.objectstore.gov.bc.ca/k…
GRAND WALL BOULDERS CLOSURE
Due to hazards created by significant rockfall events the following bouldering areas(and associated trails) remain closed until further notice. Lipsmack: Black Sabbath & Halfway Around the world, Octogon: Kemoslabby and Viper: Old and Serious, Beachcomber & Towlie.
Boudlering Closure Map: nrs.objectstore.gov.bc.ca/k…
WESTERN DIHEDRALS CLOSURE
Due to hazards created by significant rockfall events the following climbing routes between Teenage wasteland and Deadend Dihedral remain closed until further notice. Including: The Black Dyke, The Gauntlet, The Façade, Sticky Fingers, Sunset Strip, Millenium Falcon, Rutabaga, Turnip Arrowroot, and Europa.
Climbing Route Closure Map: nrs.objectstore.gov.bc.ca/k…
Updated June 30, 2023
Access Issue: Camping
Details
The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
Description
Borderline is a quality climb featuring a variety of climbing and excellent protection. You get a little bit of everything on this baby, including a burly but bolt protected - squeeze chimney. Highly recommended.
The bad news? You might have Madonna's song running through your head like I did...... I was even whistling it without knowing it while climbing. Fortunately nobody was around.....
I read an interesting post on cascadeclimbers.com from the first ascent folks. They debated the bolts on the chimney, since in theory it could be protected with big bros, but ultimately decided that if big bros were required, the climb wouldnt get done, and then would get grown over and forgotten to obscurity. Because of the bolts, the route gets repeated which keeps it clean. The bolts were placed on lead from, apparently, sketchy big bros.
A great route that I imagine required a mighty cleaning effort to establish.
The bad news? You might have Madonna's song running through your head like I did...... I was even whistling it without knowing it while climbing. Fortunately nobody was around.....
I read an interesting post on cascadeclimbers.com from the first ascent folks. They debated the bolts on the chimney, since in theory it could be protected with big bros, but ultimately decided that if big bros were required, the climb wouldnt get done, and then would get grown over and forgotten to obscurity. Because of the bolts, the route gets repeated which keeps it clean. The bolts were placed on lead from, apparently, sketchy big bros.
A great route that I imagine required a mighty cleaning effort to establish.
- P1 (10b) Start on the far left side of the bushy ledge at the end of the approach/scramble trail. There are anchor bolts to belay here. The first bolt requires a move or two to reach, but there is bomber pro at your feet. Make some technical face moves and trend up left through cracks until you reach the obvious corner. Continue up the corner and pull around a big tree. Your belay bolts are here, but around the corner to the left not visible unless you look for them. 45m.
- P2 (5.8) I chose the 5.8 version, but there is also an 11c version. Head up the corner until it is possible to traverse right about 10 and gain another crack. Up this crack, pull on the tree, and then climb through the dirt a bit. If you continue up, youll be on the Terrace below Blazing Saddles. Instead, take the cracks/corner up and left past a single bolt to the anchor. 30m.
- P3 (10d) Climb up the ramp and traverse left about 40 to the first bolt (some gear is available midway). The next 4-5 bolts offer sustained mid-10 face climbing with quality, fun movement and plenty of bolts. The bolts end at a splitter finger crack. Charge up the finger crack for quite a ways to the anchor. The books calls the finger crack 10d, but it felt more like 10b/c to me. It is sustained though. A long, varied pitch. 45m.
- P4 (10a) Easy climbing up the ramp ends at a fun roof. Pull the roof and continue up about 40 to the anchor. Above you looms the chimney . (about 25m)
- P5 (10a) How often do you get to arm bar and clip bolts at the same time?????? Step one, clip the bolt. Step two, figure out how to start the chimney. Step three, arm bar away! Apparently you can layback the chimney, but that wouldnt be near as much fun. Thanks to the F/A folks for placing the bolts, otherwise this climb would never get done (the squeeze chimney is about 8" wide). Finish the chimney and head around right up a layback crack. We built a belay about 10 about the snag, way too much rope drag to continue. (about 30m)
- P6 (10d) Fun, well protected bolt clipping to the top (about 20m).
Location
Start on the far left side of the approach/scramble trail. To find the trail, drive 0.5km on the Mamquam (sp?) forest road. In 2008, the trail was marked by a cairn and after entering the forest a giant BC Climbers Association sign indicates Sheriff Badge Trail. The tail to Angel Crest begins nearby, so be sure you are on the right trail.
Descent
One can continue into Angel's Crest (8-10 more pitches), but we rapped from the top. P3 requires a bit of a traverse/pendulum, but it was doable since there is a small ledge system. We didn't rappel the first two pitches, and instead rapped onto Terrace Ledge and then did the standard rappel from there (can be done with one 60m in two raps). A trail through the bushes (steep at the end) from the Terrace leads to the first set of chains. The next set of chains is about 60' down. The next rap is a full 30m.
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