To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments
so you only print what you need.
As Wicked As It Seems
5.11d,
Sport, 60 ft (18 m),
Avg: 3.3 from 149
votes
FA: Charlie Kardaleff, 2003
Wyoming
> Ten Sleep Canyon
> Old Rd Crags
> Leigh Creek
> Godfather Boulder
Access Issue: RAPTOR CLOSURES: MOBY DICK AREA & NO NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT
Details
RAPTOR CLOSURE: During recent raptor monitoring, an active raptor nest was discovered, prompting a voluntary closure of the Moby Dick climbing area off Forest System Road 18. The named routes and walls affected are Dough Boy, Queequeg’s Coffin, Cetology Wall and Edge of Starbuck. The area is closed immediately through August 15. The nest site will continue to be monitored through the summer. If you have questions, please contact Bonnie Allison, south zone wildlife biologist, at 307-684-7806 or bonnie.allison@usda.gov.
No new route development is allowed until further notice. On July 19, 2019, the US Forest Service issued a notice that it would no longer allow the installation of new bolts or the creation of new climbing routes after manufactured routes were established, then subsequently removed/altered by climbers. In addition, the bolts/fixed anchors on an estimated 50 climbs at Ten Sleep have been affected in some manner that may or may not make them unsafe to climb. The list of altered routes can be found in a drop down on the main, "Ten Sleep Canyon" homepage. The US Forest Service, Powder River Ranger District, is actively working with the local LCO, the Bighorn Climbers' Coalition and Access Fund to develop a sustainable framework for route standards and a Climbing Management Plan for the canyon's future.
Description
Short, bouldery and steep. Big dead points between good holds or technical movement on plenty of intermediates.
Bring a stickclip.
Location
Right line on the downhill face of the boulder.
Protection
6 bolts with drop ins
Moab, UT
Hueco Tanks
Stick click the second with a longer draw and you'll be fine. Fun route. Jul 6, 2015
Lafayette, CO
Beta Spoiler(kinda):
The 2 finger sidepull you clip the second bolt from is super solid. But my middle finger pad is still numb 3 days later from holding it so hard. I was rather scared on the consequences of blowing that clip. Aug 8, 2016
Boulder, CO