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As Wicked As It Seems

5.11d, Sport, 60 ft (18 m),  Avg: 3.3 from 149 votes
FA: Charlie Kardaleff, 2003
Wyoming > Ten Sleep Canyon > Old Rd Crags > Leigh Creek > Godfather Boulder
Warning Access Issue: RAPTOR CLOSURES: MOBY DICK AREA & NO NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT DetailsDrop down

Description

Short, bouldery and steep. Big dead points between good holds or technical movement on plenty of intermediates.

Bring a stickclip. 

Location

Right line on the downhill face of the boulder.

Protection

6 bolts with drop ins

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Easy 12a
[Hide Photo] Easy 12a
Anthony.
[Hide Photo] Anthony.
HD through the crux ad chuggin' toward the chains on 'As Wicked as it Seems'.
[Hide Photo] HD through the crux ad chuggin' toward the chains on 'As Wicked as it Seems'.
Last few moves.
[Hide Photo] Last few moves.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Jclimb
Moab, UT
[Hide Comment] 5 bolts to an open shut & bolt w/ steel biner. Crux at 2nd to 3rd bolt then good rest before pumpy finish. Jul 21, 2010
Natalie Rose
Hueco Tanks
[Hide Comment] I think this was longer than 25 feet, maybe 40-45? Jul 31, 2013
[Hide Comment] Rumor is the original second bolt on this thing pulled out, so the replacement ended up a little higher that desirable.

Stick click the second with a longer draw and you'll be fine. Fun route. Jul 6, 2015
Eliot Augusto
Lafayette, CO
 
[Hide Comment] You can clearly see where the rock broke around the second bolt. The bolt remains in the wall, inside a rock scar.

Beta Spoiler(kinda):
The 2 finger sidepull you clip the second bolt from is super solid. But my middle finger pad is still numb 3 days later from holding it so hard. I was rather scared on the consequences of blowing that clip. Aug 8, 2016
[Hide Comment] Trending left at the start felt more like 11c/d . The direct start felt more 12a for the shortness of the route. I recommend pre hanging the second draw either way. Aug 29, 2020
John RB
Boulder, CO
  5.12a
[Hide Comment] Really good route considering how short it is. 2nd bolt is currently spinning (I unfortunately didn't bring a wrench today). Huge rest at the 3rd bolt, then fire to the top on sustained pockets and crimps on a less steep angle. Some of the pockets are filled with pad-ripping teeth, however. Jul 22, 2024