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Wittich Crack

5.7, Trad, Alpine, 150 ft (45 m), Grade II,  Avg: 2.9 from 34 votes
FA: 6/27/31, Hans Wittich, Walter Becker, Rudolph Widener
Wyoming > Grand Teton NP > Grand Teton

Description

The Wittich Crack is a very fun one pitch shot leading from the start of the OS up to the Cat Walk. This obvious break in the wall above the Upper Saddle starts about 20 feet south of the Belly Roll, about where parties climbing the OS would rope up and start belaying. The double cracks of the Wittich quickly merge into a large chimney and crack system, with a few bulges and a large roof at the top. The rock is excellent and the climbing enjoyable, with the crux being the big roof at the top.

Location

See the description section. This route is likely as prone to icing and being wet as is the OS.

Protection

There are numerous fixed pins along the way, but parties would probably want a small rack including a few stoppers and cams. The pins are 'modern', not placed by Hans, and the number would indicate this route was once climbed fairly regularly.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Paul Horton starting up the Wittich.
[Hide Photo] Paul Horton starting up the Wittich.
Grand Teton: West Face: Summit: Normal Routes.
[Hide Photo] Grand Teton: West Face: Summit: Normal Routes.
Nic on Wittich Crack.
[Hide Photo] Nic on Wittich Crack.
The Wittich seen from the lowest point of the Upper Saddle, at the top of the Black Ice. Note the merging double cracks just south of the Belly Roll.
[Hide Photo] The Wittich seen from the lowest point of the Upper Saddle, at the top of the Black Ice. Note the merging double cracks just south of the Belly Roll.
First alpine climb. Glad I didn't look down until I was anchored.
[Hide Photo] First alpine climb. Glad I didn't look down until I was anchored.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Joseph Karpel
Boulder
 
[Hide Comment] This is a great alternative for those who dont want to take the belly roll if there is congestion near the summit. Jan 27, 2011
[Hide Comment] This can be done in one pitch. The crux is protected by a piton and their are about 5 pitons on the pitch. Aug 20, 2014
[Hide Comment] Exit left under the roof. Aug 20, 2014
Jesse Bryant
New Haven, CT
 
[Hide Comment] should be climbed more!

straight in crack to chimney to easy layback to beautiful roof move. bring mid-sized cams (0.5-1) or some mid-sized nuts to build an anchor at the top!

ninja roof move at 13700' is wild Jul 23, 2017
Brandon Marshal
Victor, ID
  5.7
[Hide Comment] Too much fun. Wet when we got to it - mid august, five days after last storm. Really only two 5.7 sections, a prominent midway bulge/chimney and the aforementioned ninja roof. Finger cams back up the pins on the roof move. Midway slung boulder belay/rap station in pretty good shape!

Ninja roof for the win! Aug 30, 2021