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Routes in Eagle Buttress and Environs
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Led Zeppelin T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Ultralite Flight T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Klesmerica T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Shake it Up S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Corner, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Ric Rac Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Strangeways T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Levi Lovin' T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Mission to Moscow T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Beth Anne's Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 40 ft (12 m) |
| FA: | Merrill Bitter and Bret Ruckman, 1983 |
| Page Views: | 1,353 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Ben Sukow on Aug 7, 2008 |
| Admins: | Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
For the first twenty feet of the route, climb steep bouldery moves up relatively good rock, using face holds and the occansional finger lock.
From here, the route continues to be steep, and larger holds appear to balance out the rapidly deteriorating rock quality and the various insects living in the crack. Finish the route by showering your belayer with granite pebbles and wafers while pulling into an awkward v-shaped slot that allows you to reach the anchors.
A knee bar at twenty feet provides a rest, and a no hands rest can be found slightly higher.
The steepness (overhanging 25 feet in 40 feet of climbing) and opening moves of this route are it's only real redeeming features. The fact that the Ruckman guide gives this route the same quality rating as many of the area's classics seems be mostly because one of the guide book authors was involved in the first ascent.
From here, the route continues to be steep, and larger holds appear to balance out the rapidly deteriorating rock quality and the various insects living in the crack. Finish the route by showering your belayer with granite pebbles and wafers while pulling into an awkward v-shaped slot that allows you to reach the anchors.
A knee bar at twenty feet provides a rest, and a no hands rest can be found slightly higher.
The steepness (overhanging 25 feet in 40 feet of climbing) and opening moves of this route are it's only real redeeming features. The fact that the Ruckman guide gives this route the same quality rating as many of the area's classics seems be mostly because one of the guide book authors was involved in the first ascent.
Location
Park at the grist mill and thrash through scrub oak to get to the route. See the photo topo of the Eagle buttress for the exact location.
Don't expect to have to wait in line to get on this one.
Don't expect to have to wait in line to get on this one.
Protection
Bring a double set of cams from tips-sized through .75 Camalot. Despite the short length of the route, the less than stellar rock quality encourages many placements. The Ruckman guide mentions two fixed pins that are no longer present.
Anchors are two decent looking button heads with homemade hangers, currently equalized with some rope and a quick link.
Anchors are two decent looking button heads with homemade hangers, currently equalized with some rope and a quick link.
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