JoeS Tucson, AZ

[Hide Comment] Great route. Really don't understand the bomb rating given by the one person. Feb 11, 2010

JesseJ   5.12

[Hide Comment] Super fun, some sharp bits, but in your face from the first hold. Jun 5, 2011

Pat Mac Bishop, CA

[Hide Comment] Super fun! almost got the onsight. Botched the crux move beta. Here is how I did it. vimeo.com/24582103 Jul 27, 2011

Dominic Weinstock Tucson, AZ   5.12

[Hide Comment] Excellent route! Def use the beta that Pat Mac does in his video down low......I started off using some whack heel hook beta that left me with a limp for a week :) Jun 8, 2014

Hendrixson Littleton, CO

[Hide Comment] Tightened bolts 1 and 3 with a wrench and lock-tite. Jun 24, 2014

jbak x tucson, az

[Hide Comment] John... thx for your efforts. Are there still chain-draws on Cres-sent ? It doesn't need any, and Cres and I never put any on. Jun 25, 2014

Hendrixson Littleton, CO

[Hide Comment] Yup, 3 chain draws on bolts 2 through 4. Jun 26, 2014

jbak x tucson, az

[Hide Comment] I'd be happy to see them gone. I think I speak for Cres too. Jun 26, 2014

1Eric Rhicard Tucson   5.12

[Hide Comment] Tony Lusk says yes to the chains! Jun 27, 2014

Hendrixson Littleton, CO

[Hide Comment] While the chains are certainly not necessary, they make cleaning the line much easier. Hence I would like to see them remain. Jun 28, 2014

1Eric Rhicard Tucson   5.12

[Hide Comment] Me too! Much less annoying than someones draws hanging there for weeks and weeks. Jun 28, 2014

EWod   5.12

[Hide Comment] Added leaver's at the top for ease of cleaning. Jun 7, 2015

Hendrixson Littleton, CO

[Hide Comment] Chaindraws on bolts 3 & 4 have been removed. Setting the draws and cleaning the route is now more of a hassle. While they may not have been there originally they were certainly handy. The route and area already has glue and chaindraws. Can they be restored? Thanks for the quicklinks Eric! Lazy climbers like myself applaud your efforts. Jun 27, 2015

Luke Bertelsen Tucson, AZ   5.12c

[Hide Comment] I have some ClimbTech cable draws I'm willing to donate if anyone is headed back out soon. Let me know. Jun 27, 2015

jbak x tucson, az

[Hide Comment] I think it should be cres's call. Jun 27, 2015

Luke Bertelsen Tucson, AZ   5.12c

[Hide Comment] Also, chain draws/ fixed draws would be awesome on this route. Not sure why it doesn't need any..? Jun 26, 2016

jbak x tucson, az

[Hide Comment] Hi Luke....... the FAist (Cres) almost never comes on this site, so I will attempt to speak for him. He doesn't like over-decorated crags. From the perspective of a hiker/tourist, cable-draws and chains are the most unsightly insults we inflict on crags. Bolts are less visible, glue still less. AFAIC it should be his call. This route can be cleaned pretty easily if draws are removed in the correct order. It takes a bit of thought to figure out the correct order, but it works. Jun 27, 2016

Luke Bertelsen Tucson, AZ   5.12c

[Hide Comment] John, it's likely I have spent too much time in Rilfe and Maple Canyon and have become lazy. I just felt like since the neighbor climb has chain draws and this is clearly a crag favorite it would benefit from the draws in steep terrain....just voicing my opinion. We had this place all to ourselves yesterday and stayed out the rain in the overhung terrain. In between burns we rebuilt two of the belay platforms that needed a little love. This is a great little crag. Jun 27, 2016

jbak x tucson, az

[Hide Comment] I certainly respect your opinion Luke. I was just trying to relay the feelings of the FA. It's easy to be lazy. Cable/chain draws are the ultimate in low-commitment climbing, and lots of people really like them. God knows I've hung quite a few of them, but I'm still of 2 minds about them. I feel like minimizing their use at crags that regular non-climbing hikers sometimes visit. And believe it or not, I've seen hikers at both The Steep and Delta. There are often hikers near The Orifice, but they can't get into a position to see the chains. BTW I now use ClimbTech cable-draws with steel biners because they last way longer and are somewhat less visible. I've even swapped out some of my old chain-draws at the Helmet. Jun 27, 2016

1Eric Rhicard Tucson   5.12

[Hide Comment] Any data to support the claim that cable draws last longer than chain draws. I have never heard of a chain draw wearing out but I have read about cable draws fraying. A couple of chain draws would be nice. Jbak why don't you ask Cres if he cares, I bet he doesn't. Jun 30, 2016

jbak x tucson, az

[Hide Comment] Hey Eric... long time ! Last time I discussed the route with Cres (2-3 years ago ?) he cared. Does he care __today__ ?? I don't know. As far as maintenance goes, I'm really refering to steel vs aluminum BINERS, not chain vs cable. When I used to make chain-draws, I used aluminum biners. Now I buy ClimbTech and they come with steel biners. And I know you know that steel has much better abrasion resistance. Maybe you used steel biners all along. A note for the newbish... one drawback of fixed draws is that you are less likely to notice loose nuts/hangers when clipping a fixed draw. Worth remembering. I've encountered quite a few loose nuts lately. Speaking of nuts... I was at Ireland recently and some young kid looked at me and said "Are you climbing Ireland !!??" And I thought "is there a route here named Ireland ? -- I don't think so". Then I realized that what he meant to say is "What's this old guy doing at this crag ??". LOL. Jul 1, 2016

jbak x tucson, az

[Hide Comment] Cindy... I am certainly past the point of caring. You are the future of climbing... Do what you need to do. Note that it is almost certainly illegal to hang "permanent" draws in wilderness. If you care. Jul 9, 2024

WSnyder

[Hide Comment] I was again asked if the route could have perma draws added. I’m taking the RR stance in that I don’t care what you all do. It’s your rock and your wilderness so do what you think is best :) I do appreciate being asked though ;) Jul 11, 2024

Michael Russo Albuquerque, NM

[Hide Comment] If it could use some, add some. As JBak said, we are the future of climbing. Too many sit idle behind the permission of the FA and other ethics. Well, it’s been granted. To twist the famous JFK quote: “Ask not what your crag can do for you, but what you can do for your crag”. So much time, money, and effort has been contributed by so few. And if only a few take on that work going forward, what will become of our crags? Jul 22, 2024

Scott M. McNamara Presidio San Augustine Del…

[Hide Comment] Since fixed anchors in wilderness are presently under attack--- I fear the question may really be: “Ask not what your crag can do for you, but what your crag might do to you”. or Never send to know for whom the chain draw tolls; it tolls for thee. Jul 22, 2024