Type: | Trad, 50 ft (15 m) |
FA: | unknown |
Page Views: | 1,811 total · 9/month |
Shared By: | Zac Robinson on Jul 29, 2008 |
Admins: | Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
Maybe the steepest 5.10 trad route in LCC. Head up the corner on some funky jams and jugs until you can fanangle you way into the squeeze chimney. Work your way up a bit and reach out and around to clip the bolt. Scoot back down the chimney and come out and around the last bulge.
There seems to be a "thank-god" hold or feature everywhere you want one.
There seems to be a "thank-god" hold or feature everywhere you want one.
Location
Up the slope from the Trinities. It is a large, very steep, face coming up from the trinities. It looks intimidating and rightfully so.
take a 0.75 camalot for the belay.
take a 0.75 camalot for the belay.
Protection
There is one bolt on the route. We used a 0.75 or a 1 camalot for the anchor lower belay. A single set of cams up to a #4 along with a new #6 would be more than enough.
The anchor up top is a small old rusty bolt with a doubtful looking hanger and a tree or 2. Bring some webbing and a knife.
The anchor up top is a small old rusty bolt with a doubtful looking hanger and a tree or 2. Bring some webbing and a knife.
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