Alison Conrad Evergreen, CO

[Hide Comment] The crux of the climb comes halfway through the route where the crimps are bit smaller and the feet become more smeary. Jul 25, 2008

Matt Bolt Cleveland, TN   5.11c

[Hide Comment] Awesome route; however, there may now be a second crux around the second to last bolt. A fairly crucial foot hold broke off last Saturday (8/9/08). Should still go 11+ though. Aug 13, 2008

Darren Mabe   5.11

[Hide Comment] Excellent work, Kirk. 4 stars. Unique sustained Eldo-esque face climbing. Tricky read. Sep 2, 2008

AOSR Green Mnt   5.11c

[Hide Comment] Best route on the wall in my opinion. Awesome Kirk. Sep 17, 2008

Chad M Castle Rock, CO   5.11c

[Hide Comment] Great Route! Very thin and tricky. Another small crimp pulled off near the last bolt, still goes at 11+. Nov 3, 2008

AOSR Green Mnt   5.11c

[Hide Comment] Sent it clean today and it def carries a stiff 11 rating with the current holds (which are all really solid). May 1, 2009

Bjorn WNC   5.11a/b

[Hide Comment] Definitely one of the better routes at the CZ in general. Excellent thin, demanding edge-work. As to the above caption, I don't think the phrase "runs it out" applies to this or any routes on this wall. Very closely spaced protection. May 19, 2009

Bruce Pech Boulder, CO   5.11c

[Hide Comment] Snakes Eyes is the start to do. Small tips are an asset in the thin crack and tiny pocket at the crux. Excellent route. Jun 30, 2009

Jack C Swift Evergreen, CO   5.11b/c

[Hide Comment] Very fun crimpy route with some tricky feet. Felt pretty sustained after the 2nd bolt. Warmed up on Ivy League, then hung draws and did Walking With A Ghost. Best route in the Canal Zone. Aug 13, 2009

Brett Bauer   5.11b/c

[Hide Comment] Solid 10 to 10+ face climbing with (2) 11+ cruxes and some spicy clips lands this an awesome route! Aug 20, 2009

Luke Childers   5.11a

[Hide Comment] I really liked the line. I agree with some others that there are better, maybe not as hard, routes at the CZ. I tell you this thought... if you go left too early just after the high (R) flake get ready for some crazy thin biz!! The whole wall is way cool and I plan to go back this Monday for so more I hope. Great wall and great addition to C.C.C.. Still it seems crowed no matter what time or day of the week it is!!! Cool Wall. Sep 20, 2009

Ben Burnett NM

[Hide Comment] The crux is where it gets a litle harder.... No matter how many holds break it will still be 11+, right...? Jun 2, 2010

Sara Jayne Asheville, NC

[Hide Comment] Awesome crimpfest. Sep 28, 2010

Fred C Eagle, CO   5.11b/c

[Hide Comment] One of my favorites. If you love crimps, you'll love this one. The moves definitely keep your full attention throughout. Definitely one on which to completely trust your feet. Apr 29, 2011

Jon Zucco Denver, CO   5.11

[Hide Comment] Super classic! Solid 11 face, not for the faint of heart, fingers or toes. Micro-edge-fest! The business starts just after the fourth bolt and won't let up until just before the last. You are fore-warned. May 7, 2011

Kirk Miller Catalina, AZ and Ilwaco, WA   5.11

[Hide Comment] Sent this again last Friday from the Snake Eyes start... cool throws into huecos to fun, thin biz! Not sure which holds broke off; every time I get on it, I've been using (or falling off) the same holds I used on the FA. May 8, 2011

Todd Felix

[Hide Comment] Beautiful line. Perhaps my favorite in the Canyon. Funny, Kirk always takes the same path, but I climb it a different way pretty much every time! Sometimes just for variety, sometimes the line calls to me differently that day. They all seem about the same difficulty, too. It's like a new on-sight every time. May 31, 2011

koreo Denver, CO

[Hide Comment] Awesome Line. Crimpy moves and it makes sense, no bullshit awkward moves. Well done, sir. Jun 17, 2011

Curt Hokanson   5.11b/c

[Hide Comment] Wonderful, thin face climb. Give it 11c on a hot and slimy day, well protected, too! Jul 6, 2011

Hoag Hoag Littleton, CO   5.11c

[Hide Comment] A great line to practice footwork on thin holds. Jul 18, 2011

slim   5.11b

[Hide Comment] Really good route. The only detraction was trying to figure out how to clip the last bolt. This seemed like the crux, the actual climbing wasn't too bad. I got kind of hammered here. Went pretty easily 2nd go with the draws hung. Aug 9, 2011

Dwight Jugornot Arvada, Co.   5.11c

[Hide Comment] IMHO best 11 route in CCC. Two super thin cruxes. Body position, foot technique, this route taught me more than any other route. Took me many tries to finally lead it clean- learning all the way. LOVE it! Oct 3, 2011

Jessica Pemble Yosemite, CA

[Hide Comment] Incredible crimpfest! A few thin clips or two...damn! This is a rad route! Mar 6, 2012

jmeizis Colorado Springs, CO   5.11b

[Hide Comment] Excellent and increasingly sustained crimping. Definitely fit my style of climbing. Plenty of bolts to keep you busy (almost makes it harder). Lots of technical foot and hand sequences. Really excellent. Everything seemed really solid. May 13, 2012

Kipp F Los Angeles, CA   5.11b/c

[Hide Comment] "Avoid the bailout left and stay on course through the last clip for full value" Below that bolt there are 3 pretty good crimps...but no chalk on the direct line above. Everyone seems to go slightly left. Is this the bailout'? Or is the bailout going way left? Jul 23, 2012

Kirk Miller Catalina, AZ and Ilwaco, WA   5.11

[Hide Comment] Kipp.fo, Sorry it took so long to respond to your post.... The bailout is near the second to last bolt, if you cut left there the final crux can be avoided, but you end up so far to the left, it becomes difficult to clip the final protection bolt. If you've climbed right up to the final bolt and clipped it, you're on route for sure! Sep 4, 2012

Mark Rolofson   5.11c/d

[Hide Comment] A great 5.11 steep slab. The difficulty varies a bit depending on how much the climber wanders and zig zags. If you follow the bolts and climb a direct line, the route is 5.11c/d. Oct 24, 2012

JonW   5.11b/c

[Hide Comment] Found this route to be very well protected with clean falls. Bolts are well placed. Aug 9, 2013

Clay Hansen Colorado   5.11c

[Hide Comment] Thin crimps, fun movement. Aug 16, 2013

Abram Herman Grand Junction, CO   5.11c/d

[Hide Comment] I agree with Rolofson, the direct line certainly felt like 11c/d. Super thin climbing! Sep 8, 2014

fm364 JM Reno, NV

[Hide Comment] Really fun route, feet are actually pretty good, even on the thinner, smeary crux. Keep looking for small, hidden hand holds. Oct 17, 2014

Jason Antin Golden, CO   5.11b/c

[Hide Comment] One of my favorite lines in CCC. All clips are solid. The climbing is great! Go do this route, you won't regret it! Apr 24, 2015

Alan Rader Wherever my Van is.   5.11c/d PG13

[Hide Comment] Loved the route. Start from the bottom, and don't use that cheater stone stack. Figure out the boulder start, itgoes even for short climbers ;). Sep 30, 2015

aikibujin Castle Rock, CO   5.11c

[Hide Comment] I can see why this has 4 stars, it was a fun route with a very noticeable crux. The rest of the route wasn’t easy, but at least the holds were obvious, so I didn’t have trouble seeing the moves. Then I got to the crux, and it was like hitting a blank wall (literally). It took me two or three falls to figure out a sequence that worked. All I can say is, it’s all about finding the right edges to balance your way up. Precision is important, I fell off on my second attempt, because I went into the crux sequence too dynamically and blew off my foothold. I went straight up the bolt line after the crux, it was slabby and balancy but not nearly as hard as the move you had to pull to get there. There’s a jug below and slightly to the right of the anchor to clip from, my favorite kind of finish! Oct 6, 2015

Gabriel Huie San Francisco 5.11+

[Hide Comment] The route felt like a 11+ especially for the OS, where there some bomber crimps that were crap since everyone just smeared a hurdle of chalk around the wall. I'm just wondering why people are rating this 11b or lower? I felt like Reefer Madness was a little easier than this, since this had a consistent, sustained, crimp face and was only 60 ft high. Aug 15, 2017

Nick Ferguson Denver, CO

[Hide Comment] I've gone back and forth a lot on the grade. In Clear-Creek-specific terms, I'd say .11c is just about right, but I've encountered .11d and .12a routes that don't pack quite the punch WWAG does. Either way, this is stout 5.11 crimping at its finest and one of my favorite routes anywhere. Thanks, Kirk. Nice to see you at Canal Zone today. Oct 29, 2017

Michael Kimm Free Soil, MI   5.11a

[Hide Comment] I'm probably in the minority here, but I feel like this thing is incredibly soft. It's a phenomenal route, but even giving it 11a is generous. Don't let the grade put you off; if you're touching 11s, get on this one, and have a blast! Jul 23, 2018

Ryan Marsters Golden, CO

[Hide Comment] Great route for pushing the grade! Thin, technical crimps with some sequential spots. Aug 1, 2018

Latvian climber   5.11b

[Hide Comment] Here is my take on the grade. Maybe I'm just used to thin granite edging in California, but the feet on this all felt quite big for a 5.11+ edging route. In addition, there was a rest stance at almost every bolt, so you always have time to shake and consider your next sequence. I think 5.11c is fair, but 5.11b is my personal opinion. Oct 21, 2018

Weston Hamilton Denver, CO

[Hide Comment] Great climb, technical but not pumpy or incredibly physical. Honestly, this one is all in the fingers, and up until this route, I've never used a full crimp with my thumb lol. Felt at 11b to me climbing it for the first and second time and the feet are better than some 11a routes I’ve climbed but the crimps are smaller so… Slightly harder than Reefer Madness, slightly harder than the Scientist, easier than Strange Science - makes it 11b Jul 11, 2019

Chris Ham   5.11b/c

[Hide Comment] All around wonderful climb. Can't see myself getting out to Canal Zone often, but I will be hopping on this every time I'm there from now on. Exciting onsight attempt for those looking to test their mid-11 skills. Great project for those looking to push the grade. Agreed with Weston. This isn't pumpy by any means, highly technical. Those breaking into 11+ will find this tough to send in 1 session. First attempt for onsight felt 11c while the second attempt did feel closer at 11b. Either way, I think this earns solid 5.11 if we're using the plus/minus scale. Aug 5, 2019

Maximilian Dunham Portland, ME   5.11a/b

[Hide Comment] Very nice route. Some of the best crips I've pulled on outside. A little soft for the grade as is often the case in CCC. Pretty straightforward but more slab than it looks. Has a "classic" feel to it. Oct 7, 2019

Taylor Lytikainen Denver, CO   5.11b/c

[Hide Comment] This climb is all about the feet! Commit to those tiny lil nothings, and you'll be set. Classic, for sure!! Mar 8, 2020

Branty Boulder, CO

[Hide Comment] This climb is super-good! Do it! Aug 16, 2020

Rachel P Louisville, CO

[Hide Comment] Probably my new favorite climb! I thought it was pretty easy getting to the 5th bolt. The moves around the 6th bolt were a little tricky, but I was able to rest after basically every move from there on out while I figured out each next sequence. Do this climb if you like crimps and fun movement! May 21, 2021

Daniel Kaye Denver, CO

[Hide Comment] I'm not sure how to grade this thing. The first time or two I tried it, it felt like desperate 5.11++ climbing, especially in the sunm, but now that I've got my beta down and can rest at almost every bolt, it just feels like a tricky but fun 5.10 - I now find it easier than a lot of the other mid-10s at this crag. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ Kind of hard to explain, but a super awesome line either way! Jun 16, 2021

Rodent Bair Aurora, CO

[Hide Comment] I jumped on this thinking it was Ivy League as my guidebook has only two routes between Beasto and Ivy league. I spent the whole time wondering on what planet this route would be considered a 5.10a. Great little surprise as it was a wonderful route that I would love to do again and again. Jul 22, 2021

Iain Macdonald LA   5.11c

[Hide Comment] You just gotta not think about the feet your clipping off and zone out, don't let that scare you off. I'd recommend this climb to anyone trying to push into 5.11. Fantastically sustained with a few key rests, it's an excellent route. Best 5.11 in Clear Creek. Sep 22, 2021

Robby Purple Boulder, CO   5.11

[Hide Comment] Really cool climb that makes you think and balance. I'd give it four stars if it didn't make my fingers really sore. Aug 1, 2022

Jake Sankari Indianapolis, IN   5.11c

[Hide Comment] I'm going with 11c, and I'm desperate to downgrade every route I redpoint. Visual Beta if you're projecting this grade :) youtube.com/watch?v=SFybkmG… May 27, 2024

Aaron Furman   5.11c

[Hide Comment] I honestly think this is one of the better routes in Clear Creek. It's got slab, crimps, thin foot holds - everything that makes an old school 5.11 an old school 5.11! Personally, I think this is the best in cold winter weather - the rock's crimps just feel better. DONT PULL OFF THAT BAIL OUT CRACK to the right halfway up or drop the climb a few grades. Jun 23, 2024

Shay Subramanian Denver, CO   5.11b

[Hide Comment] A masterclass in slab! I tried this climb once in 2017 as a very new climber and got totally shut down...after years and years of on and off climbing and extended breaks looking at this every time I went to Canal Zone. I finally got back on a second time and got the redpoint first try which was a surreal feeling! The crux sequence around bolts 5-7 definitely is thin on the hands and feet, but luckily the rests are very good. I was able to chill after each clip and somehow fire each sequence first try and kept it together after the crux through the sustained 10+ to the top. If I'm being honest, I don't really remember the exact beta, but I do recall some high steps and thumb presses...this route rewards good body positioning and thoughtful climbing on very small hand and foot holds, more than it does just crimping hard. It is a lot less burly than other 5.11s I've done this year, but very technical and very fun. Great vision by the FA! Aug 12, 2024