PRINT: Rock Climb Total Lack of Jump, Northern Arizona

Total Lack of Jump

5.12a, Sport, 40 ft (12 m),

Avg: 2.1 from 16 votes
FA: unknown
Arizona > Northern Arizona > Winslow Area- H… > Jacks Canyon > Main Wall

Description

Start off a large boulder on a nice crimp sidepull. From here make long reaches between chipped pockets, to obtain a resting jug and the third bolt. From here the route stays sustained on thin holds to the anchors.

While this route offers good climbing, the entire bottom is almost all manufactured.

Location

Towards the middle of mainwall. Three routes to the right of Mighty Morphin. Between Crybaby and The Thin Thin.

Protection

5? Bolts to Anchors. Stickclip

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Jake setting up for the first big move

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Pablo-Roberts
Prescott, AZ

5.12a

This comment goes for alot of routes at Jacks actually, this route on here gets 2 starts, but its one of the coolest dyno sport climbs I've done. Three consecutive big deadpoints/lunges to good then worsening holds. The top stays on you as well. I thought it would be over after the dynos and fell on the top section.

Beware of MP stars...this thing is well worth a try or two. Mar 7, 2016

Luke Bertelsen
Tucson, AZ

5.11c

Pablo, don't get me wrong this route is pretty fun, but the dynos are just long moves and not actual dynos, and the climb is short. Let's be real here. It's two stars, maybe three at a stretch.

Still TOTALLY worth doing. Mar 7, 2016

Shirtless Mike
Denver, CO

5.12a

While I agree that this climb is totally worth doing and is comparable to many other climbs on Main Wall, there is no way it is anywhere close to four stars. I can only think of one heavily manufactured (but barely noticeable) sport climb in the US that I would give four stars to. This thing is so blatantly and heavily manufactured that although the climbing is fun it is only one star from me. That is why Jack's canyon classics like Haul of Flame and Unpopular Mechanics only get two stars from me.

If you liked this route, check out Wild Breed on Swiss Wall. Mar 8, 2016