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> Tahquitz & Suic…
> Suicide Rock
> (k) Sunshine Face
> Sunshine Face - Right…
Quiet Desperation
5.11d YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 3.5 from 4
votes
Routes in Sunshine Face - Right Side
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Arrowhead T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Bukatude T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Bukatude Direct T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13 |
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Buttress Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Drain Pipe, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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First Pitch T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Gates of Delirium T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Golden Oldies T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Hesitation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Hesitation Direct T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Iron Cross T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Ishi T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Last of the Mohicans T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Moondance T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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My Generation TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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New Generation T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Nirvana T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Quiet Desperation T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Race With The Devil T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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Red Rain T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Sidewinder T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Speaking in Tongues TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Still Savage T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Stretch, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Sundance T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Sundance Arete T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R |
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Sundike T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Tempest, The TR 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Valhalla T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Valhallatude T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Voodoo Child T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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X Generation T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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You Flew Here, We Grew Here (Link-up) T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | Rick Accomazzo, Gib Lewis, and Jim Wilson, 1976 |
| Page Views: | 2,153 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Darrell Hensel on Jul 9, 2008 · Updates |
| Admins: | C Miller, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
Good mixed climbing. A very thin face crux combined with a unique feature on the second pitch, as well as a pitch of superb liebacking.
Pitch 1: Do the first pitch of the Iron Cross (11a).
Pitch 2: Clip the first bolt of the Iron Cross and then move left to follow the razor thin flake up and left. This flake is wild, a small rock dropped behind it will come out at the bottom of it, down by Red Rain. Although easy, the super thin nature of the flake makes it quite exciting. At the end of the flake climb past two bolts (11d) to the belay ledge.
Pitch 3: Follow the right facing flake to the top (10b). This is yet another of the truely classic pitches on the Sunshine Face.
Pitch 1: Do the first pitch of the Iron Cross (11a).
Pitch 2: Clip the first bolt of the Iron Cross and then move left to follow the razor thin flake up and left. This flake is wild, a small rock dropped behind it will come out at the bottom of it, down by Red Rain. Although easy, the super thin nature of the flake makes it quite exciting. At the end of the flake climb past two bolts (11d) to the belay ledge.
Pitch 3: Follow the right facing flake to the top (10b). This is yet another of the truely classic pitches on the Sunshine Face.
Protection
Bolts, thin to 2".
Per dnaiscool:
P1= (2) .5 Camalot, #3-6 stopper, #3 Steelnut, #2 Alien...bolted Belay.
P2= 50 foot runout up wild, razor flake ("No Pro Show") Stand (careful now) one bolt, 4 bolts
The crux here felt really hard for 15 ft., more like .12 something...Just sayin'
and I'd make sure I was really calm before standing to clip that lone bolt at the top
of that razor flake...and unless someone added a bolt low here, the belay bolts on the
top of P1 are all you can clip before heading up that wild flake.
P3= Double set TCU #1-3 (3/8" to 1" pro) up a sweeeeet .10a Lb flake...Belay=loop tree
Per dnaiscool:
P1= (2) .5 Camalot, #3-6 stopper, #3 Steelnut, #2 Alien...bolted Belay.
P2= 50 foot runout up wild, razor flake ("No Pro Show") Stand (careful now) one bolt, 4 bolts
The crux here felt really hard for 15 ft., more like .12 something...Just sayin'
and I'd make sure I was really calm before standing to clip that lone bolt at the top
of that razor flake...and unless someone added a bolt low here, the belay bolts on the
top of P1 are all you can clip before heading up that wild flake.
P3= Double set TCU #1-3 (3/8" to 1" pro) up a sweeeeet .10a Lb flake...Belay=loop tree
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