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Too Little Too Late (AKA: Discipline)
5.10 YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British PG13
Avg: 2 from 2
votes
Routes in Teen Queens' Crag
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Too Little Too Late (AKA: Discipline) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Too Much Too Soon (AKA: Freedom) T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, 70 ft (21 m) |
| FA: | FA: Tim Davis (TR) and Tony Bubb (Lead) |
| Page Views: | 703 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Jul 6, 2008 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: 2024 Partial Seasonal Raptor Closures lifted 7/21/24
Details
From the Denver Post 7/21/24: some of the raptor closures have been lifted, officials announced.
Upper & Lower Twin Owls, Rock One, The Book and access trail, Bookmark, and Left Book were opened based on a park new release.
Closures have been extended for Thunder Buttress, access trail, The Parish, Cathedral Wall.
Closures above the Loch Vale-Sky Pond trail have been extended.
Per Brent Frazier: the raptor closures have been lifted in the Lumpy Ridge and Loch Vale Areas ( nps.gov/romo/raptor-closure…)
Each year, Rocky Mountain National Park initiates temporary closures in certain areas of the park to ensure that birds of prey will be undisturbed during their breeding and nesting seasons. These closures begin on February 15 and continue through July 31, if appropriate. Monitoring by park staff and volunteers have determined that all remaining closures can be lifted on July 28, 2023.
Per Matt Coghill: the Golden eagle nesting activity has extended Lumpy closures through Aug. 15, 2022 on Sundance, Thunder Buttress, and Needle Summit!
Per A.Eaton: the raptor closures have been lifted as of 6/4/2022 at Lumpy for the following formations:
Twin Owls
Rock One
Batman Rock
Batman Pinnacle
Checkerboard
Lightning Rock
Per the Denver Post: as of Feb. 15, 2022, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sundance, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Bookmark Pinnacle, The Left Book, Bookmark, Twin Owls, Rock One, and the Needle are closed for raptor nesting. These closures will continue through July 31, 2022 if needed.
All areas [were] OPEN to climbing for the 2021 post July season.
Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)- nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
Upper & Lower Twin Owls, Rock One, The Book and access trail, Bookmark, and Left Book were opened based on a park new release.
Closures have been extended for Thunder Buttress, access trail, The Parish, Cathedral Wall.
Closures above the Loch Vale-Sky Pond trail have been extended.
Per Brent Frazier: the raptor closures have been lifted in the Lumpy Ridge and Loch Vale Areas ( nps.gov/romo/raptor-closure…)
Each year, Rocky Mountain National Park initiates temporary closures in certain areas of the park to ensure that birds of prey will be undisturbed during their breeding and nesting seasons. These closures begin on February 15 and continue through July 31, if appropriate. Monitoring by park staff and volunteers have determined that all remaining closures can be lifted on July 28, 2023.
Per Matt Coghill: the Golden eagle nesting activity has extended Lumpy closures through Aug. 15, 2022 on Sundance, Thunder Buttress, and Needle Summit!
Per A.Eaton: the raptor closures have been lifted as of 6/4/2022 at Lumpy for the following formations:
Twin Owls
Rock One
Batman Rock
Batman Pinnacle
Checkerboard
Lightning Rock
Per the Denver Post: as of Feb. 15, 2022, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sundance, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Bookmark Pinnacle, The Left Book, Bookmark, Twin Owls, Rock One, and the Needle are closed for raptor nesting. These closures will continue through July 31, 2022 if needed.
All areas [were] OPEN to climbing for the 2021 post July season.
Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)- nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
Description
A good climb with good moves and good rock, but engaging and challenging. Gear is good, but a little insecure to place and certainly tricky to get right. After I backing off from the initial ground-up attempt to lead this climb, Tim Davis attempted the FA under the same conditions and took a 30' fall onto the top 2" cam before the continuous crack ended, stopping about 10 feet from the ground.
After a TR ascent by Tim Davis, and a little cleaning on rap, I went up this line again and dug out and fished in a few more RP placements on lead and small holds, leading this line excited, but not in what I believe was any serious danger...
Start climbing at a crack in the base in a left-facing crack and flake system. After a few good jams a good stance for pro is had. Continue up and right in good cracks and flakes, placing a green camalot in the top of the final crack out right- this pro will be your last easy good pro, and has held a major fall already.
From this last good rest, pull over left into a seam/shallow flake (no pro) and though a huge reach from sloping feet up to a somewhat good horizontal hold. Place a #7 or #8 BD stopper or equiv. from an insecure stance. I forget which size it was, but it was pretty solid.
Fight your way up on the undulating but more or less vertical wall on rounded hands and sloping feet with tiny crystals and slopes between. Place a marginal alien (yellow or green) or a bomber highly-curved nut (WC Sper Rock for me) and continue... Fight in a few small brass nuts and head up a body length of semi-hard climbing to a rest below the lower angle top. Slab your way up (5.9-?) to the top well above gear, but safely to the top of the crag to a huge hueco for a belay or rappel.
After a TR ascent by Tim Davis, and a little cleaning on rap, I went up this line again and dug out and fished in a few more RP placements on lead and small holds, leading this line excited, but not in what I believe was any serious danger...
Start climbing at a crack in the base in a left-facing crack and flake system. After a few good jams a good stance for pro is had. Continue up and right in good cracks and flakes, placing a green camalot in the top of the final crack out right- this pro will be your last easy good pro, and has held a major fall already.
From this last good rest, pull over left into a seam/shallow flake (no pro) and though a huge reach from sloping feet up to a somewhat good horizontal hold. Place a #7 or #8 BD stopper or equiv. from an insecure stance. I forget which size it was, but it was pretty solid.
Fight your way up on the undulating but more or less vertical wall on rounded hands and sloping feet with tiny crystals and slopes between. Place a marginal alien (yellow or green) or a bomber highly-curved nut (WC Sper Rock for me) and continue... Fight in a few small brass nuts and head up a body length of semi-hard climbing to a rest below the lower angle top. Slab your way up (5.9-?) to the top well above gear, but safely to the top of the crag to a huge hueco for a belay or rappel.
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