Type: Trad, 50 ft (15 m) Fixed Hardware (1)
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,902 total · 10/month
Shared By: Perin Blanchard on Jul 3, 2008
Admins: Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane

You & This Route


9 Opinions
Your To-Do List: Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
-none-
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Description Suggest change

The formation's eponymous route is an exposed-feeling, exciting bit of climbing with good protection where needed.

From the lower, midpoint, bolted anchor on the east side climb out onto some large positive edges with no real opportunity for protection until ten feet or so from the belay (so don't fall). At this point follow the thin, corner crack up the overhanging bulge. The moves can be strenuous, but good nut placements and microcam placements abound which will ease the stress level (a #1 C3 fits quite well in one location).

Clip the bomber bolt and grunt over the top of the overhanging section. The rest of the climb is considerably easier on large, positive edges, which is a good thing because there is very little opportunity for protection (a #2 DMM Peenut is helpful).

Continue straight up, or bear left a little following a shallow, flaring almost-crack that has one opportunity where a #2 C4 sort-of fits.

Over the top onto interesting, smooth, and rounded quartzite. A 70m rope will get to the ground in a single rappel on the west side; a 60m rope will require two raps.

Location Suggest change

Climbs on the the north-facing bit of the George prow and continues on the east face. Start at the midpoint, bolted anchor on the east side, reachable via George Direct, pitch one of Lounge Lizards, or by scrambling farther to the east.

Protection Suggest change

Micro to medium nuts, micro cams, an optional hand-sized cam, one bolt, and bolted anchors top and bottom.

Photos

loading