Type: | Sport, 90 ft (27 m) |
FA: | Chris Beh, Matt Samet, Phil Gruber, 2008 |
Page Views: | 6,580 total · 33/month |
Shared By: | Chris Beh on Jul 3, 2008 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: 2024 Crag Closures & Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures
Details
The usual crags are closed for climbing for raptor nesting:
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
Description
Family Man starts 15 feet left of Boys With Power Toys. This steep route climbs through 3 successive overhangs.
Climb a 5.8 slab up to a left-facing corner. A 5.10 move gets you established below the first roof. (The first roof is typical blocky Flatirons sandstone. Be a little careful with what you pull on here but the rest of the route has solid stone.) A 5.11 move gets you to jugs at the lip and then a good rest above.
The second roof is the crux, maybe a V4 move to a jug, hard to read and easier if you're tall. Be ready to keep moving, the pump clock will be ticking from here to the top. After the crux, traverse right along a rail to get a shake and then back left and up to a jug flake. This is a huge reach from the rail just above your your feet, Maybe easy 11 if you are 6 feet. much harder if you are shorter. The final bulge is pumpy 5.11 on cool, water sculpted holds.
Climb a 5.8 slab up to a left-facing corner. A 5.10 move gets you established below the first roof. (The first roof is typical blocky Flatirons sandstone. Be a little careful with what you pull on here but the rest of the route has solid stone.) A 5.11 move gets you to jugs at the lip and then a good rest above.
The second roof is the crux, maybe a V4 move to a jug, hard to read and easier if you're tall. Be ready to keep moving, the pump clock will be ticking from here to the top. After the crux, traverse right along a rail to get a shake and then back left and up to a jug flake. This is a huge reach from the rail just above your your feet, Maybe easy 11 if you are 6 feet. much harder if you are shorter. The final bulge is pumpy 5.11 on cool, water sculpted holds.
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