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Vallee Daze
5.12a,
Sport, 75 ft (23 m),
Avg: 3 from 138
votes
FA: Tom Armstrong
New Hampshire
> Rumney
> New Wave
Access Issue: Note: New route moratorium area
Details
Description
This climb is wonderful. It is very aesthetic line, has extremely safe falls that still provide fear and it'll make for some frameable pictures. Make sure you bring your bag of tricks as you will encounter crimps, deadpoints, heelhooks, sidepulls, barndoors, pinches, fingerlocks, and a kneebar if you are observant. Balance, a couple of interesting rests and footwork will be rewarded.
Start out on easy ground, make the first clip and then get ready for the next 50 feet of business. Grab an undercling, make the move out onto the right face using crimps and make your first desperate move to the first jug of the climb at 25 feet. Make a big move up to another jug and set up for the crux, a series of crimps leading to the redpoint crux, clipping the 5th bolt off the flat ledge. Use your rest finding skills to find a left knee bar on the ledge and regroup before the final 5.10 layback moves up to the anchor.
This remarkable line is a must do for climbers 5'10" and over.
Location
Striking black arete is the center of the wall to the right of Black Dog Crack and Salley's Alley.
Protection
7 bolts of Anchors
Newly rebolted!
[Hide Photo] Lance mid-crux
[Hide Photo] A- Air and Pleasant Danger 5.8 B- Short Wave 5.11b C- Barking Spiders 5.11c D- Weevil Knevil 5.12a E- Roaring Silence 5.13b F- Salley's Alley 5.11c G- Black Dog Crack 5.10b H- Vallee Daze 5.12a
Allenstown, NH... and a van…
so i know its rated 5.11d in the guide and i heard it was stiff so is 5.12a the current consensus or just your vote? im fully aware that it doesnt matter, just wondering... Jul 3, 2008
Plymouth, NH
It is definitely 12a. Jul 3, 2008
Allenstown, NH... and a van…
Plymouth, NH; Lander, WY
Plymouth, NH
Brookline, MA
youtube.com/watch?v=mQZPFxq… Oct 16, 2015
Allenstown, NH... and a van…
youtube.com/watch?v=inA-LN5… Sep 4, 2016
Fredericton, NB
Top part is not included in the video since the route is basically over after the no-hands rest. The lower part of the route climbs really well and has some really aesthetic moves in my opinion! Jul 15, 2020
Belay Ledge
Spoiler alert: Is going left after the first resting jug legit? There are two random low crimps and right hand undercling (all chalked, 1-2 inches higher than the resting jug) and great feet (at the level of the jug) that offer even better rest than the jug. From that rest I got a left hand razor blade side pull, right hand reached up high to an ok pinch on the arete, then fire to another jug. From that point it's the same with other beta videos.
I am pretty sure those holds are not part of black dog crack. Just not sure if my sequence is "legit" coz it looks different and somewhat easier than the beta videos (still cruxy but didn't feel like 12a). Jun 19, 2023
Orford, NH