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The Elephant's Trunk
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British
Avg: 2.7 from 30
votes
Routes in Elephant Dome
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Diagonemesis T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Elephant's Trunk, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Crater Genetics T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R |
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Elephantiasis T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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B Cubed T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 1000 ft (303 m), 6 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Joe Bernfield, Dave Hansen, 1970 |
| Page Views: | 9,101 total · 44/month |
| Shared By: | James DeRoussel on Jun 30, 2008 |
| Admins: | adrian montaño, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Access Issue: Access is via PRIVATE land and may be CLOSED! Dogs Not allowed
Details
The access for Mendoza Canyon is via the good graces of the owner of the King Anvil Ranch you pass through to get to the canyon. Dogs are not allowed per land owner request.
READ THIS DOCUMENT AND OBEY!
concernedclimbers.com/Mendo…
Update from Jeff Mayhew 3.12.14:
Extended Access Info
Matt Walton from the AZ Game and Fish Dept. advised me that extended access to Mendoza Canyon will be allowed to hikers and climbers through a pilot project again this year. The normal closure begins March 1st and runs until September 1st. From March 1st thru April 30th you can contact Matt at 520-400-4022 or at mwalton@azgfd.gov to apply for access. You must have a valid AZ State Land Permit and apply with Matt 10 days to 2 weeks in advance.
You will then be given the combination to the gates on King's Anvil Ranch that lead to Mendoza Canyon. These combinations will be changed every week or 2. Consecutive days of access may be allowed, but overnight camping will not be allowed.
Matt asks that we NOT approach the ranchers about access during this period. All questions should be directed to Matt.
Update from Charles Vernon (12.6.10):
We ran into John King's daughter herding cows yesterday, on the way into the canyon. She was very nice, and we talked to her for a little while. She believes that the missing traps that led to loss of access last year were a result of hikers (climbers? hunters?) whose dogs got caught in the traps, leading to the dog owners taking or destroying the traps to free their dogs.
Regardless of what exactly happened, she made it clear that dogs are not welcome. It sounds as though just heading out there with dogs, without more, could be enough to cause them to rethink access. So please, do not bring dogs to Mendoza!
READ THIS DOCUMENT AND OBEY!
concernedclimbers.com/Mendo…
Update from Jeff Mayhew 3.12.14:
Extended Access Info
Matt Walton from the AZ Game and Fish Dept. advised me that extended access to Mendoza Canyon will be allowed to hikers and climbers through a pilot project again this year. The normal closure begins March 1st and runs until September 1st. From March 1st thru April 30th you can contact Matt at 520-400-4022 or at mwalton@azgfd.gov to apply for access. You must have a valid AZ State Land Permit and apply with Matt 10 days to 2 weeks in advance.
You will then be given the combination to the gates on King's Anvil Ranch that lead to Mendoza Canyon. These combinations will be changed every week or 2. Consecutive days of access may be allowed, but overnight camping will not be allowed.
Matt asks that we NOT approach the ranchers about access during this period. All questions should be directed to Matt.
Update from Charles Vernon (12.6.10):
We ran into John King's daughter herding cows yesterday, on the way into the canyon. She was very nice, and we talked to her for a little while. She believes that the missing traps that led to loss of access last year were a result of hikers (climbers? hunters?) whose dogs got caught in the traps, leading to the dog owners taking or destroying the traps to free their dogs.
Regardless of what exactly happened, she made it clear that dogs are not welcome. It sounds as though just heading out there with dogs, without more, could be enough to cause them to rethink access. So please, do not bring dogs to Mendoza!
Access Issue: There is no public access road provided by the BLM to the Coyote Mountains Wilderness Area.
Details
There is no public access road provided by the BLM to the Coyote Mountains Wilderness Area. This wilderness is surrounded by state, reservation, and private land. Permission to drive on an access road through the King Anvil Ranch property is granted by the owner during the months of September through February (access closed March through August). This access road also crosses Arizona State Trust Land. The owner of the King Anvil Ranch and the Arizona Game Fish have provided a sign in station for you to register your visit. Please sign in and sign out at the station. Furthermore the Arizona land managers require that you obtain a recreation permit to drive across Arizona State Trust Land. The application for this permit ($15/year) can be found at:
land.state.az.us/programs/n…
land.state.az.us/programs/n…
Description
The Elephant's Trunk is a long, fun adventure route in a backcountry setting that is hard to beat. The most moderate established route in the area, it is mostly 5.5 or less, but varying rock quality and tricky pro will keep you on your toes.
The route follows the striking left profile of Elephant Dome.
Start at the foot of the buttress below the left end of Elephant Dome.
P1) Climb easy fifth class buttress on okay rock for a pitch (5.6), until the terrain flattens out and you can walk over to the bottom of Elephant Dome proper. This should put you in a large saddle/notch at the left end of Elephant Dome.
P2) Climb moderate face, generally following the vague arete, for a rope's length to belay ledge.
P3)From belay, step left to a few steep moves (5.7) past a bolt then back right over crappier rock and up to another good ledge.
P4-6) Follow easier climbing two to three more pitches to summit.
Descent:
While there are other options, the commonly accepted descent these days is to rappel off fixed gear down the W/NW side of Elephant Dome. Look for the first bolted station at the bottom of a gully. WARNING: Hazards abound on this descent. Be cautious of loose rock when pulling rope between rappels. This rappel also has a well-deserved reputation for stuck ropes. Doing this in the dark would be stressful to say the least.
The rappel puts you in the canyon between Elephant Dome and Table Dome. From there it is a 20 minute hike around the same buttress you started on, and another few to get back on trail.
The route follows the striking left profile of Elephant Dome.
Start at the foot of the buttress below the left end of Elephant Dome.
P1) Climb easy fifth class buttress on okay rock for a pitch (5.6), until the terrain flattens out and you can walk over to the bottom of Elephant Dome proper. This should put you in a large saddle/notch at the left end of Elephant Dome.
P2) Climb moderate face, generally following the vague arete, for a rope's length to belay ledge.
P3)From belay, step left to a few steep moves (5.7) past a bolt then back right over crappier rock and up to another good ledge.
P4-6) Follow easier climbing two to three more pitches to summit.
Descent:
While there are other options, the commonly accepted descent these days is to rappel off fixed gear down the W/NW side of Elephant Dome. Look for the first bolted station at the bottom of a gully. WARNING: Hazards abound on this descent. Be cautious of loose rock when pulling rope between rappels. This rappel also has a well-deserved reputation for stuck ropes. Doing this in the dark would be stressful to say the least.
The rappel puts you in the canyon between Elephant Dome and Table Dome. From there it is a 20 minute hike around the same buttress you started on, and another few to get back on trail.
Photos
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