PRINT: Rock Climb Surge Complex, The New River Gorge Region

Surge Complex

5.11a, Trad, 80 ft (24 m),

Avg: 3.4 from 10 votes
FA: Mike Artz, Andrew Barry, Stanley Todd 1986
W Virginia > New River Gorge… > New River Gorge… > Fern Buttress > 8) Ritz Cracker Area

Access Issue: NO DRONES ON NATIONAL PARKLANDS Details

All of the crags within the New River Gorge proper are on national parklands, and drone use is prohibited here. There has been some discussion about places to launch drones that are not on park property, and then flying them over the gorge. This is super poor form; don't do it. Park regulations prohibit all drone use over the boundaries without a permit.

Description

Climb the easy layback moves to start following the crack to reach a bulge. Pull through the bulge, thin hands with occasional jugs or hand jams. Continue up to reach a large horizontal below a bulging overhang. Place a good piece and fire up over the bulge, heading left (crux). Once you reach a stance, try to find some gear and continue left and then up the face. Gear is somewhat sparce near the top and holds can be a bit dirty and less positive that you would expect. Cool route, the 5.11a rating is more of an average rating, stout!

Location

Just around the corner heading downstream from S&M. Locate the left leaning crack on a slightly overhanging wall.

Protection

Gear to 3", Many different sized pieces, standard rack. Some small tcus or the like are helpful for the top. Bolted anchor.