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The Return

5.8+, Sport, 80 ft (24 m),  Avg: 2.5 from 66 votes
FA: unknown
Tennessee > Lower Leda

Description

A great route for the grade, with excellent climbing from top to bottom.

Climb the vertical face with a balancy move or two past a bolt and up to a spacious ledge. Power through an overhanging corner section (crux) on nice but reachy holds; face climbing on slightly easier ground leads to the top.

Location

Starts just left of Big Dave's.

Protection

7 bolts; bolted mussy hook anchors.

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Route location
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The return follows the blue line.  Only the first two bolts are labeled.
[Hide Photo] The return follows the blue line. Only the first two bolts are labeled.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

BrendanN
New London, CT
  5.8 PG13
[Hide Comment] The first moves above the large ledge are a bit committing, as your last bolt (3rd) won't protect a possible short fall onto the ledge. Not recommended for new 8 leaders. Mar 6, 2017
Brent Blevins
Reno/Sparks NV
5.8+ PG13
[Hide Comment] I agree with BrendanN on the PG rating.If you blow a pull above the bulge before clipping the bolt, there's a high likelihood of decking on the ledge. Sep 9, 2017
Peter Y
Chapel Hill, NC
[Hide Comment] A BD 0.3 cam might protect you from decking on that ledge before you get to clip that next bolt Oct 28, 2017
Trystan Humann
Chattanooga
 
[Hide Comment] Ledge is sketchy Aug 7, 2019
k c
 
[Hide Comment] The ledge is scary! I saw a climber fall above the ledge one day and really mess up their ankle. Jan 30, 2021
David K
The Road, Sometimes Chattan…
  5.8 R
[Hide Comment] This is a decent piece of rock ruined by irresponsible bolting. The bolt above the ledge can't be reached without pulling significant moves above the ledge. If you fall there, it's a very serious fall, since bouncing off the ledge would potentially flip you over.

I'm no stranger to sketchy trad climbing, but that's because in trad you have to take what the rock gives you. This is sketchy because someone didn't want to spend the money to put in two bolts, one reachable from the ledge, and one a little higher to prevent ledge fall from the crux. I get not wanting to spend money, but it saves even more money to just not bolt things you can't afford to bolt properly.

If you want to climb this, bring trad gear: there's plenty of trad gear around the crux and this would be a G-rated **/*** route done as a mixed route. Nov 8, 2022
[Hide Comment] Echoing other folks, bring a couple small pieces to put one in at the ledge unless 5.9 is trivial for you. I got a nice .4 placement inside a handhold and was happy to have it. Dec 18, 2023