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Snake Run
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British PG13
Avg: 2 from 1 vote
Type: | Trad, 60 ft (18 m) |
FA: | ccox |
Page Views: | 1,238 total · 6/month |
Shared By: | Colin Cox on Jun 2, 2008 |
Admins: | Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Description
The S shaped crack, and trad test piece of the area. 5.10 to the ledge, then the crux past the flaring slot. Climb up into the slot until it feels impossible to continue, place two bomber blue TCUs in the crack, then surf out left of the slot to a crimp. Slap and sidepull the left side of the slot feature until you find some finishing holds. No second. This route was established before I learned to remove all choss, so beware if you dare.
Protection
Mostly small to extra small cams. The initial 5.10 crack section has marginal gear(#2 or #3) for the last moves to the ledge. If you lay it back it feels blind and insecure to place. Climbing straight in allows you to see the placement for what it is....flared. The upper crux section offers plenty of shallow gear. I recommend placing two pieces in the thin opening before going for the somewhat runout crux section to the chain anchor.
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