Type: Sport, 60 ft (18 m)
FA: Shawn Smith, Brent Olsen,'89
Page Views: 3,310 total · 17/month
Shared By: 1Eric Rhicard on May 28, 2008
Admins: adrian montaƱo, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Getting there the first time is a bit tough but the unreal exposure and some pretty wild climbing way off the ground for Mt. Lemmon make this worth the visit. Two unnatural holds are the crux of this route. As you can see by the comment these pockets were added after the FA. Perhaps a little epoxy will restore the climb to it's original state. Always heard they were added but didn't know it until now. The first being a tendon straining mono to a shallow two finger hold. The rest of the climbing is a good deal easier and really fun. If there was a way to yard past the mono I would have tried to climb it again but I would hate to blow a tendon and this one could do it. This is a route with spectacular exposure and if you are used to pulling hard on monos then it should not be missed.

Location Suggest change

Descend to the top of Hawk's Bill Spire. Rap the first set of chains on the west edge of the top. This rap will take you about 5 feet left of the chain anchors for the route. A decent hanging stance at the bottom left edge of the route is the start of this climb.

Protection Suggest change

Bolts and chains.

Photos

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