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Punchbowl Arch (Right Arch of Cave)

5.13- PG13, Sport, 90 ft (27 m),  Avg: 3.8 from 9 votes
FA: unknown
Colorado > Eagle/Vail/Mint… > Lime Park (a.k.… > Punchbowl
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Description

This would probably fall under #3 for the Punchbowl area. Probably one of the best sport climbs in the universe. Crux is linking the moves on the roof and holding it together enough to pull around onto the face for more great technical climbing. I'm surprised this hasn't been sent yet, and the line is beautiful and inspiring in the midst of such an enchanted setting. Very intimidating as well. It may be harder than 13...

Location

Upon entering The Punchbowl, skirt along the bottom rim to the right until it goes uphill again for 30 feet or so. Rather than continuing uphill, cut back towards the cave and the first few bolts are the start of this gorgeous line.

Protection

9 bolts I believe. One could use a large cam between the 8th and 9th as it is pretty run out (about 15-20 feet I believe) though with 5.10 climbing. If you've made it that far, you shouldn't have much to worry about.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Kevin working up the Right Arch.
[Hide Photo] Kevin working up the Right Arch.
Here's me making it to the anchors (barely--I mean, burly!) on this open project.
[Hide Photo] Here's me making it to the anchors (barely--I mean, burly!) on this open project.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Monomaniac
Morrison, CO
[Hide Comment] According to the 2008 guide from Wolverine Publishing, this line has been sent, and it's 13+. Aug 10, 2009
mkclimb
  5.13-
[Hide Comment] Wondering if anyone who has sent this route can give me some clarity?

While it is hella fun (that runout at the end is fairly easy climbing, but def. exciting), there are two routes on the right arch of the cave . . . .

According to the guidebook, the one that goes under the arch (where the picture here is taken) is a 5.13c bolted by Tommy Caldwell. It felt way closer to the low end of 13, though. There is another route that climbs on the vertical side of the arch that also looks hard - I believe that one was the open project, and the line pictured here is an older route.

Clarification? Anyone know? Jun 17, 2012
[Hide Comment] I would agree with mkclimb. This is a great climb and should get more traffic but the grade is closer to 12d/13a. The climb to the right looks just as good but harder. Sep 2, 2013
jauernigg
edwards, co
  5.12d
[Hide Comment] Yeah, the left route on right side of the cave is in the 12d/13a area, but the route just to the right of it is real hard down low, like double digit boulder problem hard, but the headwall is some of the best rock in the canyon! Oct 20, 2013
chris deulen
Denver-ish, CO
  5.13+
[Hide Comment] Anybody got a name? Feb 12, 2014
mkclimb
  5.13-
[Hide Comment] I've just been calling it "The Punchbowl Arch" and the line next to it "Punchbowl Direct". Not sure if anyone has done that one recently; I tried it last summer and while most of the route is gorgeous, the bottom is rather friable - took off some big holds working it and it's substantially more difficult from bolts 1-4. Feb 11, 2015
Mississippi James
Riverside by way of the dir…
[Hide Comment] First off... this is truly a great route on an awesome, left-leaning arch with beautiful blue/ grey/ orange streaks above. The route still needs some scrubbing but would be amazing with more traffic. The lower (crux) arch section is very textured with limestone barnacles that really bit. If you can get past that, then the upper hea wall is more friendly and super fun. Next time I'm in Lime Creek I'll bring some stuff to do some cleaning for the masses. All in all, I think this is one of the better routes for the area and deserves more traffic! Aug 29, 2017
[Hide Comment] Went and worked it this weekend. The 3rd bolt looks like it might be pulling out. There is about a 1/8th inch gap between the hanger and the rock. It would probably be ok to clip 4th bolt and work the lower section, but I was too much of a coward to keep going. Aug 3, 2019
Daniel Tchen
Denver
  5.13- PG13
[Hide Comment] What a route! Definitely have your belayer wear a helmet. I knocked off a softball-sized block with my foot that looked sturdy. Does anyone have any info on the closed project that continues up the arch to the left? Aug 3, 2020
chris deulen
Denver-ish, CO
  5.13+
[Hide Comment] I briefly spoke with the equipper who was working it this past weekend. He said it should be hard 13 I believe. Looks really good! Aug 3, 2020