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Edge-n-Scary

5.11a/b, Trad, 110 ft (33 m), 2 pitches,  Avg: 3.3 from 16 votes
FA: Christian & Jim Knight
Utah > Wasatch Range > Southern Wasatch > Rock Canyon > Ed & Terry Wall

Description

P1 (5.8, 50') Starts in a mungy slot/corner a few feet left of Captured for Rapture. This pitch requires some medium-sized pieces of gear. After you pull the slightly overhanging slot you kind of get on a little fingerish crack on the north side and that takes you to a tiny ledge with an anchor (one chain, one hanger).

P2 (5.11a, 60') Move over a fun roof (crux) and continue up the now moderate face staying really close to the arete.

Location

Starts up a short "dike" underneath the left side of the double roofs on the left of the Ed and Terry Wall.

Protection

P1 Medium gear, bolted anchor (one chain, one hanger).

P2 7 bolts, bolted anchor.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

10 Edge-n-Scary 5.11a
[Hide Photo] 10 Edge-n-Scary 5.11a

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Christian "crisco" Burrell
PG, Utah
 
[Hide Comment] For the sheer position you end up in, this route warrants a fourth star! One of the coolest lines in the RC. I remember it was pretty simple for the grade but still solid. This route is one of the canyons "must-do's"! May 9, 2008
Sam Cannon
Salt Lake City, UT
 
[Hide Comment] P1 felt a bit tenuous to me...really fun movement but kinda crap gear with very suspect rock through the roof/corner. Bring 1 or 2 finger sized pieces for the upper portion going to the anchors. Oct 2, 2014
Kyle Hill
Denver, CO
[Hide Comment] anyone know if you can do this in just one pitch? Apr 26, 2017
Andrew Park
Grand Junction, CO
 
[Hide Comment] Started on P1 it was choss. Did Captured For Rapture and thought it was a way better (and more sustained way) option to get to the anchors below the money pitch. Nov 6, 2020