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Old And In The Way
5.11b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 2.1 from 20
votes
Routes in The Bear
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[Redacted] S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Arete (aka 3-Star Arete) S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Bear Arete S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Bear Crack, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Bear Cub Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Bear Fingers T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Bear's Choice S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Beast of Burden S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Beast, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Black Hole Sun S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Body Snatcher S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Brazin S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Choss Factor 3 S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Dirty Paws S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Drunken Sailor S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Freestone S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Gold Doubloons S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Grigio S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Jason and the Argonauts S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Jekyll and Hyde S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Just Bearly T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Kidnapped S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Kill Uncle S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Kodiak S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Mark's Moderate T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Martian Landscape S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Moonshine S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Napa Valley Party Service S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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NE Butt of Bear Chimney S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Old And In The Way S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Old Ghost S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Pieces of Eight S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Polar Bear Spire S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Rampage S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Rusty Razor S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Silverado Squatters S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Smash n Grab S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Stone Free S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Swallow My Pride S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Theodore Roosevelt (aka Teddy Bear) S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Treasure Island S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Ursa Major T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Ursa Minor, aka: Guillotine Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Wayne's World S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Sport, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,372 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Salamanizer Ski on May 4, 2008 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
Old and In the Way... where to start? Might as well be at the first bolt. The first bolt is tricky and delicate to clip, that big chalked up rail is sadly not as good as it looks. Holding on with one hand with grim feet is a challenge.
But the action starts right after you make the clip! Those grim holds get worse as you move up, feet are surprisingly tough to come by and the holds above are small and distressingly far.
I'll come clean. I led this climb, but it wasn't clean. I A-Zeroed the crux by pulling on the first draw. The old guide says .11c, but I couldn't pull the move so I'm speculating with the .11c. The rest of the climb is much easier, maybe mid .10 with a fun mantle move on the blob at the 3rd bolt.
Very different in character from the other crag .11c Beast of Burden.
But the action starts right after you make the clip! Those grim holds get worse as you move up, feet are surprisingly tough to come by and the holds above are small and distressingly far.
I'll come clean. I led this climb, but it wasn't clean. I A-Zeroed the crux by pulling on the first draw. The old guide says .11c, but I couldn't pull the move so I'm speculating with the .11c. The rest of the climb is much easier, maybe mid .10 with a fun mantle move on the blob at the 3rd bolt.
Very different in character from the other crag .11c Beast of Burden.
8 Comments