PRINT: Rock Climb Fantasy, The New River Gorge Region

Fantasy

5.8, Trad, 120 ft (36 m), 2 pitches,

Avg: 3.6 from 329 votes
FA: Tim Mein and Rich Pleiss, 1984
W Virginia > New River Gorge… > New River Gorge… > Endless Wall > M) Fantasy Area

Access Issue: NO DRONES ON NATIONAL PARKLANDS Details

All of the crags within the New River Gorge proper are on national parklands, and drone use is prohibited here. There has been some discussion about places to launch drones that are not on park property, and then flying them over the gorge. This is super poor form; don't do it. Park regulations prohibit all drone use over the boundaries without a permit.

Description

The obvious hand crack that heads straight up the Fantasy roof area.

15 feet of semi-awkward face and crack climbing leads to a nice long splitter with bomber jams, great rest stances and good holds both in and out of the crack.

Location

Quickest way in is to park at the Nuttall lot. Take the trail in and where it forks for the Cirque ladder, go right (downstream) and follow the rim until you reach the clearing with a very distinct tree (there is a picture in the guidebook) where you'll find a pair of rings to rappel in. You'll find yourself staring at the route on your way down. 1 60m barely makes it with stretch.

If you're not into rapping in, take the Cirque ladder in and head downstream until you reach it. This adds about ten minutes or so to the approach.

Protection

Takes everything from .5 to 4. You may want multiples in the 1 and 2 sizes. Hexes work good in this too. Bolted anchor at the top of the "first pitch".

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Start.

JT giving it a go. Photo Credit: David West

Keisha high on the route contemplating whether this is just a fantasy or if perhaps reality really is this great.

Daniel Joannes In the perfect hands on a warm fall day

Just above the awkward start on Fantasy. Photo by JH.

Looking at Fantasy from the base

Bottom part of Fantasy

This great climb, as I recall, keeps your attention the whole way up. Photo: Ely, 2008

The amazing Fantasy

Hutch begins jamming up Fantasy Crack.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Kyle Hartung
Cleveland, OH

This route is fun and straight forward - climb up the crack. I thought the crux was actually the first few moves. What do I know... Jun 30, 2016

Matthew Gill

Attack the crack with all of the hands you have. It's so good that you will start off smiling and by the end you will be manic with mirth. Jul 2, 2018

Derek Ehrnschwender
Cambridge, MA

The roof protects the route from light rain and the crack doesn't seem to seep--this is a good wet day option. Get a good spot for the starting moves. Amazing fun and the rests keep it very tame. My partner and I thought this was a touch easier than Critter Crack at Seneca (the only other long splitter we've done in WV). Dec 2, 2019

John Douglass
Seattle, WA

A long time ago I was belaying a friend up this route. He was about 25 feet up and stuck his hand in the crack for a jam, found a snake instead, and snatched it out on instinct. I dodged the incoming snake that survived the fall and slithered across my bare feet while I danced around trying to keep one eye on the snake to see what type it was (not a copperhead, probably a gopher or something) and the other eye on my partner. Mar 20, 2021

Zev
Albuquerque, NM

The bits just after the roof and then again towards the very top take #2 cams, but I remember wishing I'd brought an extra 0.5, 0.75, and #1 for the rest of the route. Never placed anything smaller than 0.5 or bigger than a #2, though you could use a #3 at the very top before gaining the anchor ledge. Awesome line! A little bit of everything. Thought that mantling into the little alcove halfway up the route was a mini-crux, but I missed an obvious pod just below, which provides a solid stance for the left foot. Jun 1, 2021

Max Gunther
Nashville, TN

How long is the approach to get to this area? Aug 9, 2023

Bailey Nicholson
Michigan/Virginia

Thoughts on doing it as one pitch? Jul 9, 2024

Meredith Meads
Cincinnati

I would not recommend doing this as one pitch. It's definitely doable, but there's some serious ledge fall potential off the belay ledge for the second pitch. That mixed with the massive spiders all over, and the questionable rock quality of the second pitch, feels like a recipe for disaster.
First pitch is a dream, second pitch is "an adventure."
Top out is possible on this, just not the most pleasant. Doing a top out does not feel consistent with the grade of the rest of the climb: it gets super sandy and blank.
The approach is a quick 10 minute walk from the parking lot on a well maintained trail. I had no problem finding the rappel station using the map on mountain project. Aug 28, 2024

Jake Jones
Richmond, VA

I'll say it: the second pitch is dogshit. Lower off the anchor that's ~80' up and save yourself the novelty that isn't worth the time. Sep 4, 2024