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Routes in M) Fantasy Area
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Aesthetica S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Black and Tan T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Blackhappy S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Doce Doe T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Erotica S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Fantasy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Fantasy Face S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Jet Cap S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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May the 4th Be With You T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Mowed Out Mama T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Mr. Fantasy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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New Fangled Dangle T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Orgasmatron, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Rebel Spade S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Riddle S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Sparks S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Stick, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Tide, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Two-Step Arete T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Unknown T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Virgin Thing S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, 120 ft (36 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Tim Mein and Rich Pleiss, 1984 |
| Page Views: | 24,863 total · 123/month |
| Shared By: | Chris Hillios on May 4, 2008 |
| Admins: | Pat Goodman, Chris Whisenhunt, Amanda Smith, Pnelson |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: NO DRONES ON NATIONAL PARKLANDS
Details
All of the crags within the New River Gorge proper are on national parklands, and drone use is prohibited here. There has been some discussion about places to launch drones that are not on park property, and then flying them over the gorge. This is super poor form; don't do it. Park regulations prohibit all drone use over the boundaries without a permit.
Description
The obvious hand crack that heads straight up the Fantasy roof area.
15 feet of semi-awkward face and crack climbing leads to a nice long splitter with bomber jams, great rest stances and good holds both in and out of the crack.
15 feet of semi-awkward face and crack climbing leads to a nice long splitter with bomber jams, great rest stances and good holds both in and out of the crack.
Location
Quickest way in is to park at the Nuttall lot. Take the trail in and where it forks for the Cirque ladder, go right (downstream) and follow the rim until you reach the clearing with a very distinct tree (there is a picture in the guidebook) where you'll find a pair of rings to rappel in. You'll find yourself staring at the route on your way down. 1 60m barely makes it with stretch.
If you're not into rapping in, take the Cirque ladder in and head downstream until you reach it. This adds about ten minutes or so to the approach.
If you're not into rapping in, take the Cirque ladder in and head downstream until you reach it. This adds about ten minutes or so to the approach.
Photos
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