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Routes in Glenwood Canyon Ice
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Alcatraz T M11 |
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Deep Throat T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a WI5-6 M7 |
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Glenwood Falls - Left / Right / Center WI4-5 |
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Glenwood Falls Far Right WI4-5 |
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Hidden Falls WI4-5 |
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Hidden Falls (Secret 4th Pitch) WI4 |
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Leftmost Corner at Hidden Falls WI5+ M5+ |
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| Type: | Ice, 250 ft (76 m), 3 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Lou Dawson / Michael Kennedy, 1977 |
| Page Views: | 5,981 total · 30/month |
| Shared By: | Knockneed Man on Apr 25, 2008 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: 2020 and on access issues
Details
Per Michael Schneiter: it's worth noting that access to climbs in Glenwood Canyon is difficult to impossible currently. Following this summer's Grizzly Creek fire the exits and rest areas for Grizzly Creek, Shoshone and Hanging Lake have been and remain closed. The bike path is also closed. That leaves climbers with no great option for parking and climbing Hidden Falls, Glenwood Falls and the others. There may be some workarounds, but they aren't easy.
Description
Park at the Shoshone rest area, underneath I-70.
From here, the real crux of the day, can actually be crossing the Colorado River to obtain the south-side of Glenwood Canyon. There is water that's diverted from the river around here, so there are some shallower portions of river that, during cold weather, can form an ice bridge providing access to the other side. There is a dam, but crossing that is illegal, and I believe there are cameras that monitor this.
Once across the river, follow the train tracks West, but do not walk on them, as this too is considered trespassing. Be discrete.
Head South up a gully towards the rim of the canyon, where a large sheet of ice should be visible. This is the object you desire.
The left side of the curtain provides some steeper and mixed options, though the most obvious line follows the right-hand side of the curtain from a chimney area. This is usually WI4. There is a cave that forms behind the curtain about 100 feet up which can provide an interesting belay, or continue up and right to belay. Above that there are two more pitches, one with moderate ice, and an upper pitch which is steep and mixed and being more in the WI5+ range.
Come prepared for a night out when you do this climb as the ice bridge you crossed early in the morning may not be there in the afternoon.
From here, the real crux of the day, can actually be crossing the Colorado River to obtain the south-side of Glenwood Canyon. There is water that's diverted from the river around here, so there are some shallower portions of river that, during cold weather, can form an ice bridge providing access to the other side. There is a dam, but crossing that is illegal, and I believe there are cameras that monitor this.
Once across the river, follow the train tracks West, but do not walk on them, as this too is considered trespassing. Be discrete.
Head South up a gully towards the rim of the canyon, where a large sheet of ice should be visible. This is the object you desire.
The left side of the curtain provides some steeper and mixed options, though the most obvious line follows the right-hand side of the curtain from a chimney area. This is usually WI4. There is a cave that forms behind the curtain about 100 feet up which can provide an interesting belay, or continue up and right to belay. Above that there are two more pitches, one with moderate ice, and an upper pitch which is steep and mixed and being more in the WI5+ range.
Come prepared for a night out when you do this climb as the ice bridge you crossed early in the morning may not be there in the afternoon.
Descent
Per Tombo: Tree sling raps were available when we climbed the route from the top of the 1st and 2nd pitches. Raps for 2nd pitch are in the small bushy trees down and climbers right from base of third pitch. Raps for 1st pitch are in the trees on climber's right above the snow gully above the little rock band.
Photos
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