Continue with onX Maps
Sign in with Facebook
Routes in Fourth Buttress
|
Flake T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
|
|
Zolar Czakl T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
|
|
Zolar Czakl (Direct) T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
|
|
Northwest Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Heartland, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
|
|
Unknown, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
|
|
Southwest Chimney T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
|
|
South Face Roof 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C2 |
|
|
Undocumented Free Roof T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
|
|
Scrundle Corner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
|
|
Smooth Groove T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
|
|
Candelaria's Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Unknown Mixed Route aka The Green Gargoyle? T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
|
|
Endgame T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
|
|
.... Variation of Mickey Mantel T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Mickey Mantel T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
Order Wrong?
Sort Routes
| Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | J. Frank, S. Hall, 1976 |
| Page Views: | 1,336 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Apr 24, 2008 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Seasonal Closures 2025 - Bitty Buttress, Blob, &, Security Risk reopened. Eagle Rock remains closed.
Details
On 3/14/25: Bitty Buttress, Blob, & SR reopened. Eagle Rock is closed.
2/3/25. Bitty Buttress, Blob, Eagle Rock &, Security Risk closed for raptor nesting.
FS (3/27/24): Eagle Rock & Security Risk are now open!
2/1/24: W. McCurry: USFS annual area closures in Boulder Canyon beginning 2/1/24 - Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, Eagle Rock, Security Risk.
From W. McCurry: 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk opened. Eagle Rock is closed - info: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….
W. McCurry, NFS, Arap./Roo. NF: USFS began annual area closures in BC 2/1/23. The closures were Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Through 7/31/23, the closures protect golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District with BCC monitors nesting progress & informs climbers about giving eagles space to raise young.
Fed. & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting closures. Signs are posted at key access pts into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.
K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a 5 mo. closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF has reopened Eagle Rock.
“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong & healthy eaglet this year,” wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but climber cooperation with closures are crucial to the eagles.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, nest sites stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made, unused areas opened in Apr.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Effective through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal & state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, & wildlife professionals under an agreement with the FS enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest & the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, & the public. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting all closures & leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office @ 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
As of 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock stays closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.
From K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob, East Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security are open. Eagle stays closed to climbing & other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers.
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.
Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle, Security, Blob, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
2/3/25. Bitty Buttress, Blob, Eagle Rock &, Security Risk closed for raptor nesting.
FS (3/27/24): Eagle Rock & Security Risk are now open!
2/1/24: W. McCurry: USFS annual area closures in Boulder Canyon beginning 2/1/24 - Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, Eagle Rock, Security Risk.
From W. McCurry: 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk opened. Eagle Rock is closed - info: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….
W. McCurry, NFS, Arap./Roo. NF: USFS began annual area closures in BC 2/1/23. The closures were Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Through 7/31/23, the closures protect golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District with BCC monitors nesting progress & informs climbers about giving eagles space to raise young.
Fed. & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting closures. Signs are posted at key access pts into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.
K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a 5 mo. closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF has reopened Eagle Rock.
“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong & healthy eaglet this year,” wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but climber cooperation with closures are crucial to the eagles.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, nest sites stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made, unused areas opened in Apr.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Effective through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal & state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, & wildlife professionals under an agreement with the FS enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest & the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, & the public. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting all closures & leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office @ 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
As of 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock stays closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.
From K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob, East Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security are open. Eagle stays closed to climbing & other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers.
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.
Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle, Security, Blob, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
Description
This is surprisingly good with good moves and good rock, once you get going.
P1: (5.9, 100') Climb up a few moves down and right of the right-facing corner (accessing from the left is harder and loose) step up on good holds into the corner and head upward. The climbing there is runout, but not hard (5.8). Continue up the corner and eventually left on face moves to reach a right-facing corner, now perhaps 12 meters off the ground. Climb this corner on jams and stems (5.9) to reach a ledge. There is no cave, per se, as mentioned in Rossiter's book, but rather a small recession with a chockstone in it. Belay here on good gear.
P2: (5.10, 100') The crux is the awkward mantle. It needs a good brushing and is very hard to tackle directly, I got some chips for feet and layed back off of a high and right sloper, then knee-locked the corner to move up into a mantle. It felt solid 5.10 to me. A 3/4" cam protects these moves with a ledge and belayer just below, hoping you don't fall on either the ledge, or belayer....
Get up on this ledge and move the gear up to avoid drag. There is a crack directly above to finish up to a ramp, but it was considerably more interesting to continue up and left on the ramp 20 feet to a taller crack...climbing that to another shelf, then out the shelf to a 3rd section of crack, reached via pulling a roof on jugs. This last section might be 'Candelaria's Crack' (or might not be). Finish on jugs and Belay up top by tossing the rope around a huge bollard of rock, or off of large cams.
Scramble off the back side to return to the streamside trail and your packs.
P1: (5.9, 100') Climb up a few moves down and right of the right-facing corner (accessing from the left is harder and loose) step up on good holds into the corner and head upward. The climbing there is runout, but not hard (5.8). Continue up the corner and eventually left on face moves to reach a right-facing corner, now perhaps 12 meters off the ground. Climb this corner on jams and stems (5.9) to reach a ledge. There is no cave, per se, as mentioned in Rossiter's book, but rather a small recession with a chockstone in it. Belay here on good gear.
P2: (5.10, 100') The crux is the awkward mantle. It needs a good brushing and is very hard to tackle directly, I got some chips for feet and layed back off of a high and right sloper, then knee-locked the corner to move up into a mantle. It felt solid 5.10 to me. A 3/4" cam protects these moves with a ledge and belayer just below, hoping you don't fall on either the ledge, or belayer....
Get up on this ledge and move the gear up to avoid drag. There is a crack directly above to finish up to a ramp, but it was considerably more interesting to continue up and left on the ramp 20 feet to a taller crack...climbing that to another shelf, then out the shelf to a 3rd section of crack, reached via pulling a roof on jugs. This last section might be 'Candelaria's Crack' (or might not be). Finish on jugs and Belay up top by tossing the rope around a huge bollard of rock, or off of large cams.
Scramble off the back side to return to the streamside trail and your packs.
Location
On the South side of the South Face of the 4th Elephant....
Take the streamside trail through the first gate (not posted) and look for where a grassy ramp comes down and right from the left edge of the south face. Where this blends into the ground, there is a brief, crumbling section of rock for a meter of climbing before accessing a shallow, left-facing corner.
Take the streamside trail through the first gate (not posted) and look for where a grassy ramp comes down and right from the left edge of the south face. Where this blends into the ground, there is a brief, crumbling section of rock for a meter of climbing before accessing a shallow, left-facing corner.
0 Comments