All Locations > Utah > Wasatch Range > Southern Wasatch > Rock Canyon > Bolt Slab

Sky Hook

Name: Sky Hook
Rating: 2.5

5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British

Routes in Bolt Slab

L › R R › L A › Z

	Buttered Muffin S,TR 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
	Chimney Route T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Dance of the Pregnant Wildebeest T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Dazed and Refused T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Double Jam T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Meadow Muffin S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Sky Hook T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Slip n Slap V5+ 6C+
	Stud Muffin Variation T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
	Two to Tango T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Two-Nut Muffin T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

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Type:	Trad, 70 ft (21 m)
FA:	Jim Downs, Lynn Miobas, 1970
Page Views:	1,809 total · 9/month
Shared By:	Perin Blanchard on Apr 24, 2008
Admins:	Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

A fun, but committing route up the left side of the Bolt Slab.

Scramble up some blocky, lower-angled rock to the base of the slab proper (you can belay either from here or from lower down, below the blocky stuff).

Climb a pedestal on the left and start upwards, eventually reaching the left arete and easier climbing to chain anchors.

Head towards the left edge of the slab via a left-angling, broken crack that peters out at the arete leaving you with limited (and marginal) protection options for a while. Fortunately, however, there is a fixed pin around the arete that can be clipped with a double-length runner.

The thin (approximately ¼") crack about ten feet from the left edge is Two-Nut Muffin that offers protection but harder climbing, and keeps you away from the left edge longer than Sky Hook

Once reaching the left edge the climbing is easier and continues on mostly large holds while following a broken crack system to the bolted anchor.

Location

The left side of the west-facing slab. Climb a pedestal at the base of the slab on the left, and then head up.

Protection

A set of nuts (with an emphasis on small nuts), and small to medium cams. Runners, including a double-length runner for a fixed pin around the edge if you go that way. Bolted anchor.