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Routes in Durrance Approach
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Black-Jones Direct T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Blue Stem Skyway T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Bowling Alley- aka Durrance approach route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 |
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Centennial A2 |
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Devil's Delight Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Direct Southwest T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Double-Edged Blade T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A3 |
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Durrance T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Fritz's Fantasy S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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interesting problem below, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Late for Dinner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A2+ |
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Liken Lichen T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Lovely Liana T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Manifest Destiny T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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P.O.T.C. T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Pseudo- Wiessner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Rangers Are People Too T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Space Ranger T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Sundance T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Tunnel Vision T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Wiessner T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, 275 ft (83 m), 3 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | June 1937, Fritz Wiessner, William House, Lawrence Covney |
| Page Views: | 11,231 total · 56/month |
| Shared By: | Doug Hemken on Apr 23, 2008 |
| Admins: | Peter Gram, Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: June Voluntary Climbing Closure and Seasonal Raptor Closure
Details
VOLUNTARY JUNE CLIMBING CLOSURE
The National Park Service asks that climbers choose not to climb the Tower during the month of June. The June voluntary climbing closure was selected as part of the Devils Tower Climbing Management Plan by a working group that included two climber organizations, two American Indian organizations, and other agency and local government representatives.
Climbers are strongly encouraged to consider enjoying the many other climbing options available in northeast Wyoming and the Black Hills area of South Dakota, during the month of June.
Details: nps.gov/deto/planyourvisit/…
Climbing MGMT Plan nps.gov/deto/planyourvisit/…
Rock climbing routes on the East and Northeast Faces of Devils Tower summit will be temporarily closed to protect nesting Peregrine and Prairie Falcons.
The National Park Service asks that climbers choose not to climb the Tower during the month of June. The June voluntary climbing closure was selected as part of the Devils Tower Climbing Management Plan by a working group that included two climber organizations, two American Indian organizations, and other agency and local government representatives.
Climbers are strongly encouraged to consider enjoying the many other climbing options available in northeast Wyoming and the Black Hills area of South Dakota, during the month of June.
Details: nps.gov/deto/planyourvisit/…
Climbing MGMT Plan nps.gov/deto/planyourvisit/…
Rock climbing routes on the East and Northeast Faces of Devils Tower summit will be temporarily closed to protect nesting Peregrine and Prairie Falcons.
Description
P1 (5.5-5.8): From the initial belay bolts either climb slightly left and up an awkward wide crack, or move up and right about 15 feet until you can traverse back left. Once on the ledges above the belay you have three choices: (a) Go left around the base of the short pillar and climb up its left side, then continue up the left side of the small pillar above to a bolted belay station (5.5, combines Sundance and Wiessner). (b) Climb up through the stemming box, either stemming or jamming the crack on the left. Step left when you have a chance, and climb the left side of the upper pillar (5.6, Wiessner proper). (c) Climb up the stemming box. Instead of moving left, continue straight up the hand/fist crack to the top of the upper pillar (5.8, aka "Extended Wiessner").
P2 ("5.7"): From the belay move down & right a few feet until you can fall across the gap and into the Wiessner Crack. Keep reminding yourself that Fritz climbed this with a bowline around the waist, no sticky rubber shoes, with no pro and no beta, on sight! You may want to take your #6 camalot and walk it up as you chicken-wing and heel-and-toe. It is also possible to stay outside of the crack and use it as a side-pull/layback. Stop struggling once you get to the belay bolts at the top of the pillar.
You could link p2 and p3 with a 60m rope, but then you'd miss the fun of watching your partner struggle up behind you.
P3 (5.5): Continue up the wide crack/chimney directly above the pillar. At the platform above, walk to the back and climb the cracks on the right until you are on the same ledge as the upper Meadows Rappel. Build your own belay here for best rope management, using medium nuts.
P2 ("5.7"): From the belay move down & right a few feet until you can fall across the gap and into the Wiessner Crack. Keep reminding yourself that Fritz climbed this with a bowline around the waist, no sticky rubber shoes, with no pro and no beta, on sight! You may want to take your #6 camalot and walk it up as you chicken-wing and heel-and-toe. It is also possible to stay outside of the crack and use it as a side-pull/layback. Stop struggling once you get to the belay bolts at the top of the pillar.
You could link p2 and p3 with a 60m rope, but then you'd miss the fun of watching your partner struggle up behind you.
P3 (5.5): Continue up the wide crack/chimney directly above the pillar. At the platform above, walk to the back and climb the cracks on the right until you are on the same ledge as the upper Meadows Rappel. Build your own belay here for best rope management, using medium nuts.
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