All Locations > Utah > Southwest Utah > Zion NP > Mt Moroni

Varco Route

Name: Varco Route
Rating: 3.6

5.11c/d YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 25 ZA E4 6a British

Routes in Mt. Moroni

L › R R › L A › Z

	Varco Route T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
	Voice from the Dust T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Plan B T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
	Crack in the Cosmic Egg T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C2+
	Crack in the Cosmic Egg (Free) T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c

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Type:	Trad, 135 ft (41 m), 2 pitches
FA:	P1: John Varco P2: Brody and Bird
Page Views:	2,164 total · 10/month
Shared By:	Gaar on Apr 15, 2008
Admins:	Fallon Rowe, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane Page Updates (admin only)

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Explore this route in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Closures in effect March 1
Check for current Raptor closure conditions at:

nps.gov/zion/planyourvisit/…

Description

One of the best splitters in the main canyon!!!

P1: Climb Nice hand crack to a 5 foot tight hands roof, then pull over roof on .75's and clip the first anchor. 60ft 5.11b/c

P2: Climb tight hands/thumb stacks for 80ft. 5.10b

Rap whole route with a full 70m or two raps with a sixty.

I linked the 2 pitches for what was possibly the 3rd ascent, and possibly the first linkup at 5.11+