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Left Ladder

A1, Trad, Aid, 60 ft (18 m),  Avg: 2.8 from 4 votes
FA: unknown
California > Los Angeles Basin > Angeles Nationa… > Millard Canyon

Description

This slightly overhung bolt ladder is in a an amazing setting only a very short drive from Pasadena. As long as you show up early enough, you'll love it, but show up late or on a weekend and be prepared to perform for the crowd. The first bolt sheared off in 04/29/2002 and was replaced with a 3/8" rawl.

I've seen people banging pins in for a belay at the base, which I could see for soloing, but is certainly unnecessary when belayed by your partner. Does the belayer really need to be anchored when standing around? Plus, banging pins into the rock at ground level in front of tourists and next to a waterfall is probably bad P.R. for climbers.

Location

Left most bolt ladder. Short folks will need to stick clip the starting bolt or pile up some rocks.

Protection

17 bolts to bomber 2 bolt anchor with rap rings. 5 bad bolts, 2 of which can be skipped. The other 13 are bomber.

If soloing the route, make an anchor with the first 2 bolts (both good), bring some gear for the base, or sling a huge boulder with webbing. There is no need for pins.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Left Ladder and Center Ladder routes.
[Hide Photo] Left Ladder and Center Ladder routes.
Bad bolt - last one before anchors on Left ladder
[Hide Photo] Bad bolt - last one before anchors on Left ladder
Me on route messing around
[Hide Photo] Me on route messing around
First bolt on Left Ladder - good
[Hide Photo] First bolt on Left Ladder - good
View of the top where the Left and Center Ladders merge to finish at the good anchor
[Hide Photo] View of the top where the Left and Center Ladders merge to finish at the good anchor
Looking down from halfway up the Left Ladder.
[Hide Photo] Looking down from halfway up the Left Ladder.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Tristan Burnham
La Crescenta, CA
 
[Hide Comment] Towards the top there's a few spots for some gear. I think I skipped the last 3 bolts on gear placements. If you're doing laps on this it'd be worth it to bring a light rack to try it out. Dec 10, 2018
Tristan Burnham
La Crescenta, CA
 
[Hide Comment] Supposedly in 2005 this was rebolted as a free climb at 12+.

rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/fo…;search_string=Millard;#1929054 Dec 10, 2018