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Pieces of Eight

5.11b, Sport, 60 ft (18 m),  Avg: 3.2 from 12 votes
FA: Chad Watkins
Arkansas > North-Central A… > Horseshoe Canyo… > E Side > Far East

Description

The route looks like it is never done because of all the lichen and lack of chalk, but it is a very good line. Tricky climbing takes you past the first couple of bolts. The rest of the route consists of interesting movement between good stances.

Location

The first route to the right of Montezuma's revenge (the big detached flake). Around the corner is Orange Crush and the edge of the property.

Protection

Nine bolts and a two bolt anchor.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Tradiban
  5.11b
[Hide Comment] A reachy start leads to the best movement at the ranch. Mar 30, 2010
Bryce Mikel
Redlands, CA
5.11b
[Hide Comment] This line is ugly, and climbing it is tough to find the line due to lack of chalk. That being said I really thought this was a solid route with unique and hard moves you don't usually find on flat crimpy or overhung juggy routes that you usually find at the ranch. May 27, 2019
Jacob Elliot
  5.11c
[Hide Comment] The first half is very sustained. There are several technical cruxes and I found the hardest section about 3/4 up the route. I put this at 11c comparing it to other routes at Horseshoe. I also think that if you were taller then you might find this on the lower end of the grade. But either way, it's an amazing climb and deserves more traffic. Sep 17, 2023