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Stopper Ceiling

5.10d, TR, 55 ft (17 m),  Avg: 2.8 from 12 votes
FA: FFA Bud (The Budman) Arbelo and Paula Malone, Mid 90"s
Pennsylvania > Southeastern Lo… > Ralph Stover SP… > c. Neolithic Wall

Description

Climb the thin face bewteen Route 2 and Neanderthal to a small overhang. Clear this overhang at 2 loose flakes (5.9), then continue up the short face to the larger ceiling. Work out the lip of the ceiling, hand traverse slightly right, then pull over the ceiling to the large ledge (Neolithihc Ledge).

Originally done as an aid climb (A3) in the early 1970s. FFA unknown.

Build an anchor at the back of the ledge. You will need gear and long slings to set up a TR from here.

Location

In the center of the Neolithic Wall near the left edge and a few feet right of the Route 2 ceiling notch in the obvious ceiling 35 feet up.

Protection

 .4 BD Camelot, Black Tricam, Pink Tricam, Bolt, #3 DMM Brass Nut, #3 BD Camelot, Two Bolt Anchor. 

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

left side of Neolithic Wall
[Hide Photo] left side of Neolithic Wall
right side of Neolithic Wall
[Hide Photo] right side of Neolithic Wall

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

budman
Moab,UT
[Hide Comment] FFA Bud (The Budman) Arbelo and Paula Malone, Mid 90"s. Bolt at roof old 1/4" aid bolt with funky hanger (gotta love it). Lowe Ball useful if not absolutely necessary. Jun 7, 2008
BJ4ya
Eastern PA
 
[Hide Comment] Two large flakes under the first overhang, marked with Xs, are loose. Watch out! Jul 6, 2014
EFS
[Hide Comment] those flakes have been "loose"since the 80s....probably longer.....usually someone chalks x's on them....
theres a couple ways to pull the roof, my usual is head left heel right, but i found this one goes easier hooking a left heel with your head to the right. goes either way at a stiff 10 rating. Sep 25, 2019
gunkie X
Solebury, PA
  5.10d
[Hide Comment] I flashed this on TR, but have yet to repeat it. Was that a dream? I should go back and try this again to see if I fell back to sleep. Cool TR. May 10, 2022