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Arch Rival

5.9, Trad, 2 pitches,  Avg: 2.4 from 8 votes
FA: unknown
New Mexico > Las Cruces Area… > Organ Mountains > Rabbit Ears Area > Citadel
Warning Access Issue: Power drilling is prohibited in the Organ Mountains Wilderness. DetailsDrop down

Description

This route has a low crux negotiating an undercling/smeary traverse. It is fun and easy to protect with small cams and nuts. Turn the roof on the right and follow a crack system with good gear up to more bulges. At this point a couple of traverses to the left are possible but the climbing eases and you can choose the best looking line. Finish on the ledge where Finger Zinger anchors are located and rap with two ropes.

Location

Just right of the Finger Zinger face and before the normal approach for the Nose there is a low but obvious arching roof. Start in the right facing corner and undercling through the "arch" of the roof.

Protection

Standard Organs rack required. All sizes and configurations can be used but singles from small (.3) to Camalot #2 and nuts with some slings for drag will get you there. Finger Zinger anchor can be used for rap. I use double ropes to deal with the drag on this route and you need two ropes to get off the route safely.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Variation 5.9
[Hide Photo] Variation 5.9
Arch
[Hide Photo] Arch

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Karl R. Kiser
  5.9
[Hide Comment] This was a variation start to Anticipation (FA Mike Head--5.9; late 1970s). Note the high bolt to the right above the tree in which we once placed slings. The route continued up and then went left to the fixed anchors on the ledge. It is possible to continue up and right but again this is just another variation. Apr 2, 2008
Josh Hamling
Las Cruces, NM
  5.9
[Hide Comment] I saw that bolt. It makes sense that you would want to sling a tree considering its location. Slab face looks fun. Apr 6, 2008
Charles Cundiff
[Hide Comment] You guys are smarter than I am. When I first stared climbing I just led Anticipation up to that bolt and fell trying to clip it. Luckily I was 19 and dumb enough to try it again immediately upon discovering that I didn't break both my ankles. May 28, 2010
Meghan C
Huntsville, AL
 
[Hide Comment] Fun and still has great climbing after the arch. Sep 4, 2019