PRINT: Rock Climb Sidewinder, Little Cottonwood Canyon

Sidewinder

5.12+, Trad, 60 ft (18 m),

Avg: 3 from 2 votes
FA: Drew Bedford 2005
Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Little Cottonwo… > Gate Buttress > E Gate Buttress

Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing

June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.

The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.

Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.

Read More:

saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…

SLCA and AF recreational leased area on LDS Church land

Description

Face climbing past one bolt leads to this diagonaling splitter. The crack leads through a bulge (crux) and continues to a 2-bolt belay.

Rating is subjective based on finger size. The rock is gritty, bring tape.

Location

Hike north up the gully from Negro Modelo, skirting the bulk of the East Gate. After some 3rd class (approx. 500 feet), Sidewinder appears on the left as a prominent diagonal crack.

Protection

Standard thin rack, nothing bigger than 2". Bring plenty of .5" cams--minimum of 5, more for comfort. Small nuts helpful.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

sidewinder, and wild things

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Landon McBrayer
Salt Lake City, UT

BURLY. There are two bolts at the start and 3 pins in the crack. You'll need a handful of micro cams to supplement the fixed gear, e.g., 4-5 purple to blue metolius. Nothing bigger is needed (see next sentence). You could use a #3 camalot after the last pin, but the climbing is 5.8 and not that runout. Good luck! Nov 9, 2013

Brent Barghahn
Flagstaff, AZ

5.12d

Ignore the guidebook comment about #0.5s, it should definitely be 0.5" cams. Bring a bunch of micros as nothing bigger than a 0.3 C4 fits. Two pins remain on the line but neither are needed. This thing is bouldery and sequential. Get ready to pull very hard on some flared tip locks! Jun 12, 2019