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Geezers Go Sport

5.11b, Sport, 80 ft (24 m),  Avg: 3.3 from 314 votes
FA: John Bronaugh and Stacy Temple, 1992
Kentucky > Red River Gorge > Natural Bridge… > Zoo > Old Zoo

Description

About thirty feet left of 'One Brick Shy,' and the huge central amphitheater of the zoo, you'll find this impressive line of bolts over a gradually overhanging face. This route has three main sections, all split up by no hands rests. Start up the slightly overhanging bulge, cranking your way through jugs until the first ledge is reached.  After a nice rest, embark on part II of your journey, the steepest (and most juggy)section to another smaller ledge. The final section holds the crux for many, for although the angle lessens slightly, holds become smaller and more scarce. Efficient climbing and good resting will eventually bring you to the final, lower angle top section where the chains will be waiting.

Location

30 feet right of the huge steep amphitheater that resides in the middle of the zoo.

Protection

9 Bolts

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

James Otey onsighting Geezers...
[Hide Photo] James Otey onsighting Geezers...
James Otey getting off the ground... Its a long way to the top....
[Hide Photo] James Otey getting off the ground... Its a long way to the top....
The start of 'Geezers Gone Sport'
[Hide Photo] The start of 'Geezers Gone Sport'
Beautiful spring day
[Hide Photo] Beautiful spring day
Otey crusing up the first steep section...
[Hide Photo] Otey crusing up the first steep section...

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

DrRockso RRG
Red River Gorge, KY
[Hide Comment] Updated with SS Glue-ins 2/8/2015. No more run out or trad gear necessary. Bolt count remains 9 plus anchors. Thanks ASCA! Feb 8, 2015
EthanC
Bay Area, CA
[Hide Comment] The re-bolting makes this awesome route a lot less intimidating. Thanks! Aug 12, 2015
Brant Hysell
oakland
 
[Hide Comment] Fantastic Route! I found it to be even more fun than Monkey in the Middle. Aug 28, 2018
Jarek Voyles
Beattyville, KY
 
[Hide Comment] Very underrated and under-appreciated route. Seems rather rare to find anyone on it. Fears of slamming into the first no-hands ledge seem to spook people from what I’ve heard. Rest assured, the falls are clean.

Depending on your preferred style, this one could feel easier or harder than Monkey. An excellent choice for breaking into the grade if you’re not too confident in your endurance. The techy top section is interesting and keeps it from being another mindless jug haul. Oct 20, 2021
Rebecca G
Crested Butte, CO
 
[Hide Comment] This geezer thought this route was a total gas. A little less steep at the start than Monkey in the Middle, with a bigger variety of holds and moves. Personally I thought it was on par, or easier than the popular Monkey route to its left. However, if you get all bent out of shape at having a little slab at the top, go somewhere else. Not terrifying in the slightest, the holds are all there, but require thought. Two great rests (first one is a no-hands) separate three distinct sections of climbing. Take them if this is your grade, or ignore them if you want to get a nice warmup pump for the harder stuff. Excellent either way. Oct 27, 2022
Elise Zheng
NYC
  5.11b
[Hide Comment] Don't take it for granted when you pulled all the overhang jugs - the top slab section is very spicy! May 3, 2023
[Hide Comment] Super fun route that I enjoyed a lot more than Monkey in the Middle! Some jug haul sections but also other more technical parts which required some thought. Very doable for the grade imo Oct 26, 2024