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> E Crags (DBC Canyon)
Endless Journey 5.8+
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British PG13
Avg: 3 from 2
votes
Routes in E Crags (DBC Canyon)
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Bloody Slab T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Day of Atonement T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Day of Endless Chocolate T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Death by Chocolate T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Endless Journey 5.8+ T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Fun Size T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Road to Mecca, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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| Type: | Trad, 1610 ft (488 m), 10 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Paul Ross Andy Ross (Var leads) 20th March 2008 |
| Page Views: | 3,319 total · 16/month |
| Shared By: | Paul Ross on Mar 24, 2008 · Updates |
| Admins: | Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
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Description
Takes a line between Death by Chocolate and Day of Atonement. A bit of an expedition with fine situations and great views from the summit. Most of the rock is good ,however one or two of the easier pitches are a little flakey.
P1)Enter the groove and at about 140' cam belays. 140'5.5
P2)Continue up the groove passing a pro bolt about 20' above the belay to double anchors at its top. 160' 5.7
P3)Climb 15 feet up to the right to a bolt and fixed biner . Lower off from this about 60' than traverse right to anchors at the start of pitch 4 of Death by Chocolate.
P4) Climb up right to a pro bolt (this has been added as flake seemed unstable for cam placement) above a hollow flake ,up from this to another bolt then right to double anchors (P4 D by C).100'5.8
P5)Do not go up the scoop of D by C traverse up to the right to join a chocolate band of rock passing a bolt at about 130'to double anchors to the right of a small bush. 200' 5.5R
P6)Continue up the slab passing a bolt to double anchors below a groove and crack.200'5.6R.
P7)Climb the groove and continue to double anchors 200' 5.6R.
P8)Straight up and enter slim groove ,step left out of this about 20' below a small roof to double anchors left of the roof.200'5.6R
P9).Continue up the slab to a natural cam belay below some blocks #3.5 and #4 friends.200' 5.6R
P10 Straight up slab left of blocks to the summit groove 150' 5.6R .Register in small cairn.
Descent Go around the corner to the left and along a big ledge then descend a large scoop to the rap anchors at the top of Death By Chocolate. Follow 200' raps to the anchors at the top of the 5.9 pitch 4, then a rap from here reaches the canyon floor.
P1)Enter the groove and at about 140' cam belays. 140'5.5
P2)Continue up the groove passing a pro bolt about 20' above the belay to double anchors at its top. 160' 5.7
P3)Climb 15 feet up to the right to a bolt and fixed biner . Lower off from this about 60' than traverse right to anchors at the start of pitch 4 of Death by Chocolate.
P4) Climb up right to a pro bolt (this has been added as flake seemed unstable for cam placement) above a hollow flake ,up from this to another bolt then right to double anchors (P4 D by C).100'5.8
P5)Do not go up the scoop of D by C traverse up to the right to join a chocolate band of rock passing a bolt at about 130'to double anchors to the right of a small bush. 200' 5.5R
P6)Continue up the slab passing a bolt to double anchors below a groove and crack.200'5.6R.
P7)Climb the groove and continue to double anchors 200' 5.6R.
P8)Straight up and enter slim groove ,step left out of this about 20' below a small roof to double anchors left of the roof.200'5.6R
P9).Continue up the slab to a natural cam belay below some blocks #3.5 and #4 friends.200' 5.6R
P10 Straight up slab left of blocks to the summit groove 150' 5.6R .Register in small cairn.
Descent Go around the corner to the left and along a big ledge then descend a large scoop to the rap anchors at the top of Death By Chocolate. Follow 200' raps to the anchors at the top of the 5.9 pitch 4, then a rap from here reaches the canyon floor.
Location
One can 4th class the slot canyon to the start (see D by C and Day of Atonement descriptions .Or if water in pools at the right side of the entrance scramble up a small gully and look for a way left then right and descend an easy crack .continue up to a ledge with rap anchors. Rap into the canyon and easy walk to the routes. The climb back up the rap is about 100' 5.4
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