Cro-Magnon
5.10b/c,
Trad, TR, 50 ft (15 m),
Avg: 3.7 from 102
votes
FA: Steve Arsenault
Massachusetts
> Central, MA
> Crow Hill & Leo…
> Crow Hill
> 3. Fisherman's Wall
Description
Awesome and pumpy, this is the inviting, vertical hand crack that starts up the tallest portion of the wall but arches left to end the journey early.
The start is guarded by a steep boulder problem without pro leading to a pod with a shiny silver bolt on what looks like a chockstone about 15 feet up. There are three variations to this start, but most people opt to enter from the right on big, chalked holds. After clipping the bolt (gear can easily substitute), move up on a few slopey holds before hitting the jams. What's great about this climb is the variety of jams ranging mixing fingers, hands, fists, and even a little OW to gain a good rest, but the choice remains mostly yours as several sizes are often available depending on what suits you. If you can fight off the pump long enough, one hard move starting the leftward traverse marks the end of the difficult climbing which ends as the crack turns the corner. If, TR'ing, you can end here or finish up on Green Corner or try the arete above.
Though the climb has always been dry when I've seen it even when others are soaking, the crack and face tend to be a little dirty, so either bring a brush or find solid jams because they may slide out unexpectedly. If you can lead 5.10, you gotta get on this.
Location
This is the obvious vertical hand crack on the tallest part of the wall that varies in size and arches left about halfway up the wall. Chalked jugs in the alcove below mark the easiest sequence through the start.
Protection
1 QD which is a recommended stick clip unless you are confident on the bouldery start leading to mostly mid-sized cams and nuts possible. Because of the variety of sizes, you can really use a wide range of cams though having extra hand-sized pieces will make placing gear quicker higher up.
![Dan halfway up Cro-Magnon on toprope.]()
[Hide Photo] Dan halfway up Cro-Magnon on toprope.
![Kneebarring to end the boulder problem start. Here the pumpy climbing begins with one good rest in the middle.<br>
<br>
I haven't really seen anyone else get on this, so I'm not sure if this is the normal beta, but it worked perfectly.]()
[Hide Photo] Kneebarring to end the boulder problem start. Here the pumpy climbing begins with one good rest in the middle. I haven't really seen anyone else get on this, so I'm not sure if this is the norm…
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WNC
NH
I found other anchors in the area equally dubious (the Intertwine anchor, for example). Cro- Mag is a magnificent piece of climbing, though. A wee bit bold to the first bolt, then enjoyably pumpy climbing to a pin protected leftwards traverse that gets the heart rate up. Simply put: awesome. Oct 18, 2008
NH
Bozeman, MT
Would get 5.11-awesome at most other areas. Beware! Nov 2, 2013
I somehow got through the start 1st try only to be thoroughly spanked by the wide stuff higher up. PUMPY. Nov 2, 2013
Wolfeboro, NH
Vermont
Jackson, WY
MA
MA
Rhode Island
Rhode Island
Unfortunately, what you are describing is the whole sale retro-bolting of the accomplishments of others. Not all routes should be bolted into submission, especially as the first ascents of some of these routes were done in traditional style by New England icons, i.e.; The Recidivist, a Henry Barber route and one of the earliest 5.11+ routes lead in the northeast, and Absolute, a Tim Kemple headpoint route. We should raise ourselves to the standards of those who came before us and had the vision and boldness to lead these climbs.
Dune was developed as a mixed route by John Mallery, and thus its current condition rises to the level of his achievement. Though some have lead it on pre-placed, or rehearsed gear, it was a mixed route when first lead.
Fool is a mess w/ a poorly located mid-anchor and a few bad attempts of bolting access to the Lizard headwall. Some consensus could be reached as to how to best cleanup the poorly located metal on this route.
I do not know the history of the bolt on Cro Mag, and it seems unlikely Steve placed it, but an older local may have more history. There is indeed gear around the bolt, so it may only have been added to keep people from breaking bones, which I cannot comment on.
The mid-anchor on Jane is a mess, the sling anchor on Cro Mag is a mess, as is the mid-anchor on Fool. It would be worthwhile to see a discussion of how to deal with these potential time bombs. Jul 14, 2022
MA and NH
MA and NH
Tamworth, NH
Scott Cosgrove's Cookie Monster at the Cookie Cliff is another example (among many, many) of bolts creating a great rock climb at a trad area when, previously, very few people wanted to do the route because of bad gear. The route was very seldom climbed until the bolts went in, and Coz (one of the boldest climbers in the Valley) was fine with the upgrade. Why? Because (a) times change, and (b) people were now getting on a great line.
I first climbed at Crow Hill in 1975, and it's a great crag—the best piece of rock in Eastern Massachusetts by far, but now it seems as if it's somewhat of a museum piece, stuck in the era of EBs and painter pants—so much great climbing is inaccessible because there is no way to safely protect it (unless, perhaps, your lover has left you, and you're willing to risk dying). Farley, Mormon Hollow, Chatfield Hollow, and lots of local areas have figured out that there can be a healthy balance between trad climbs and sport climbs. Why not Crow Hill too? Bolting CroMag, Jane, Cheetah, Tarzan, or the like would be ridiculous, of course. I'm definitely not recommending that, but why not make a sport route out of Dune? Or some of the other areas of almost blank (but climbable) rock? Dune would unquestionably be one of the best sport routes in Southern New England, and Crow Hill would no longer be a great crag that is, sadly, a bit stuck in the past.
Lastly, for the die-hard Ken Nichols traddies and old-school "no bolts!" dinosaurs who have read this far, thank you for hearing me out, but please remember that you can always ignore the bolts on any route and place gear if you want to. People do that all the time at Rumney. Jul 14, 2022
Boston, MA