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Errant Edge

5.10a, Trad, 100 ft (30 m),  Avg: 2.9 from 138 votes
FA: Ruckman Bros.
Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Little Cottonwo… > Lizard Head Wall
Warning Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed DetailsDrop down

Description

Follows three bolts up chicken heads and small crystals on the right side of the Lizard Head wall. Spicy.

Location

Right of Squeeze My Lemon on the Lizard Head Wall.

Protection

Some pro available between the three bolts.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Durf on the Errant Edge<br>
<br>
Courtesy of Troy Anderson ProPoint Photography
[Hide Photo] Durf on the Errant Edge Courtesy of Troy Anderson ProPoint Photography
Cary Siteman climbing in the crack toward the top of Errant Edge.
[Hide Photo] Cary Siteman climbing in the crack toward the top of Errant Edge.
At the Crack to the right and below the first bolt
[Hide Photo] At the Crack to the right and below the first bolt
At the final bolt.
[Hide Photo] At the final bolt.
Cary Siteman stepping out above the 3rd bolt on Errant Edge
[Hide Photo] Cary Siteman stepping out above the 3rd bolt on Errant Edge
Between the first and second bolt.
[Hide Photo] Between the first and second bolt.
Stringing along on knob central.
[Hide Photo] Stringing along on knob central.
The Boogie before the Errant Edge.
[Hide Photo] The Boogie before the Errant Edge.
Follows three bolts up the right side with some pro avaliable down low before it eases up.
[Hide Photo] Follows three bolts up the right side with some pro avaliable down low before it eases up.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Sir Camsalot
thankgodchickenhead, Ut
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] I only Tr'd this but will be back soon for the lead. A fall getting to the second bolt would put you in the trees. Mar 19, 2008
[Hide Comment] no it won't. Its fine and the climbing right there is nicely featured. This actually starts around the corner in the crack for a move or two before pulling onto the lip. Starting directly under the bolts onto that slab ramp feels kinda like .11a. There is a small cam placement for the juggy (honestly!) runnout to the anchors. Mar 19, 2008
Sir Camsalot
thankgodchickenhead, Ut
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] ah...I thought it started at that right trending ramp just right of Squeeze My Lemon. Fun shizz either way. Mar 19, 2008
Arie
Smog Lake City, UT
  5.10- PG13
[Hide Comment] Wow, one of my favorite slabbin' craggin' leads in LCC. The short rightward trend above bolt 2 (or 3?) sports some wickedness and the final crack provides some welcome forgiveness. I've always started this down left of the bolts- but around the corner sounds like a prime idea. Used to be gear for anchors... probably still is...? Mar 20, 2008
Sir Camsalot
thankgodchickenhead, Ut
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] New (last year??) anchors have been placed up top. Mar 20, 2008
[Hide Comment] The tree belay for Squeeze My Lemon had grown into that block and loosened the last foot making the belay unsafe. So you can still belay with gear or you can continue on to the summit of the block and lower with a 70m rope. Mar 20, 2008
[Hide Comment] Really fun route. Gear is not critical between the bolts, however a larger cam and long sling is nice at the top near the chain. The climbing is delicate, yet highly featured compared to other slab routes in the canyon. Right on for whoever put the chain anchor at the top of these route! Apr 13, 2008
Sunny-D
SLC, Utah
[Hide Comment] The Chain Anchor was added last fall (2007) by Tenesmus and Sunny-D. There are now several other routes in the area as well- All really fun "well" protected. pm me if you want information. I need to finish a couple of things up there before I post the routes May 1, 2008
Michael Buchanan
  5.10-
[Hide Comment] I thought, at the bottom, that this was going to be a crimpy sport climb. Boy was I wrong. Cool slab moves at the top! Wahooooo! Apr 26, 2010
Alex Quitiquit
Salt Lake City
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] Awesome slab. A little sporty in the movement at the crux but fantastic. Not really PG13, you make the crux move with good pro. The top's a bit runout, but it's easy climbing. May 13, 2012
Erik R Johnson
Tacoma, WA
[Hide Comment] I just have to add my 2 cents...if you are planning to climb to the same anchors as "Squeeze my Lemon" and "Zesty," then you should bring gear for the upper cracks. Otherwise it is a serious runout (though as other posters have mentioned, the climbing up higher is easier). Apr 14, 2013
Charlie S
NV
 
[Hide Comment] A climb most suited for a cold day. Interesting moves the whole way. Nov 11, 2014
Jim Clarke
Fruitland, UT
[Hide Comment] Heady lead, seemed full value for a 10a going straight up bolt line (easy to get lost in much harder territory) cutting right to the edge/arete probably keeps it at 10a. Definite runnout up top w/o some gear. A fall before clipping the second bolt would not be good, rope stretch to ledges...probably warrant at least a PG-13 rating elsewhere? May 12, 2016
Matt Steubing
Salt Lake City, Utah
[Hide Comment] Thought I would add this video link of the climb from 2013. This was my second climb of the season (the first being Squeeze My Lemon as warm up that same day) and it was definitely fun and delicate on the slab portion. Cary Siteman (pictured on this page) lead the climb that day. The video gives some feel for being on the route. Enjoy! youtu.be/JWPmo3UR1xA Jun 1, 2016
zoso
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] Wow. Just when I thought there wasn't a more useless location for a GoPro. Jun 1, 2016
danhohl
Gunnison, CO
[Hide Comment] Gotta agree with Shameless Shaemus. Fell yesterday right before clipping the second bolt and hit the ledges with rope stretch. Nonetheless, great route and great lead to get a taste for LCC slab! Oct 2, 2016
Alex Zucca
Salt Lake City, UT
 
[Hide Comment] This is an excellent climb. Good features between bolts 1 and 2. The crux is right after you clip the second bolt so nothing scary. The runout sections have great foot features. May 19, 2019
Dan Wells
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10b R
[Hide Comment] Sick climb. Definitely has a decking potential getting to the 2nd bolt - practice on TR unless you're confident at the grade. Dec 6, 2021
Adam Fleming
AMGA Certified Rock Guide,…
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] A bit of gear beta if you want it: 0.4 for after the third bolt (which is hidden around the arete). Then there's a sneaky horn to sling with a double length before you commit to the final slab, but you have keep your eyes out for it. Mar 23, 2022