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Routes in The Prow Area
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Women in Love T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Recompense T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Faux Pas Arete, The T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Gypsy T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Beast Flake, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Another Pretty Face T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Prow, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Liquid Sky T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Edge of the World S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Worm Drive S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Peanut Gallery Flake T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 3 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Joe Cote, John Porter (aid) 1971. FFA: Henry Barber, Ed Webster 1978 |
| Page Views: | 9,959 total · 48/month |
| Shared By: | Peter Beal on Feb 26, 2008 · Updates |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
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Description
Women in Love, a Joe Cote aid route, is one of the classic crack climbs in the NE. Steep, clean and exposed climbing with airy belays. Ratings go back and forth for the crux pitch--12a is probably appropriate.
Pitch 1. Easy but awkward climbing leads to a fierce thin section (11d). There used to be a tree to get past the last crux. A good ledge is just above. 70'
Pitch 2. Continue up the easier finger crack to an exposed hanging belay in the vicinity of the top of the Beast Flake (5.11b). 70'
Pitch 3. A short section of crack/corner climbing leads to a thin boulder problem past two bolts right on the arete trending left. Finish up an awesomely exposed flake that lands you on the ledge below the tourist overlook. (12a) 70'
Pitch 1. Easy but awkward climbing leads to a fierce thin section (11d). There used to be a tree to get past the last crux. A good ledge is just above. 70'
Pitch 2. Continue up the easier finger crack to an exposed hanging belay in the vicinity of the top of the Beast Flake (5.11b). 70'
Pitch 3. A short section of crack/corner climbing leads to a thin boulder problem past two bolts right on the arete trending left. Finish up an awesomely exposed flake that lands you on the ledge below the tourist overlook. (12a) 70'
Location
Off the right end of the long tree-covered ledge, find a nice sloping ledge with an obvious right-leaning finger crack. The best approach is to traverse the ledge across to the route. You can also climb WILD which is two somewhat unevenly protected pitches (11b, 10c)starting left of the Beast.
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