Type: Trad, Aid, 2000 ft (606 m), 19 pitches, Grade VI
FA: Dave Bircheff, Phil Bircheff, and Jim Pettigrew, 1976 FFA: Tommy Caldwell, Beth Rodden, 6/2000
Page Views: 100,036 total · 490/month
Shared By: Michael Schneiter on Feb 21, 2008 · Updates
Admins: Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Pitch 1. 5.11 or C2 Hooks. 130'  
Cams - 1ea to #3 Camalot
Hooks - Regular no Camhooks
5.11 or reachy, thin hooks between bolts - extender or stiff draw super useful unless you are the tallest human - leads to 5.10 or more hooks to a small roof section, then more bolts and hooks to the belay. Def have the tallest climber lead this one ;)

Pitch 2. 5.13c or C1+. 130'
Cams - 1ea offsets
1ea .75 Green Totem or Camalot
Hooks - Regular no Camhooks
A couple big reaches or hooks lead to a comfy bolt ladder to a few placements before the belay stance. Another very reachy pitch.

Pitch 3. 5.12d or 5.7 A0 free variation or C2+ Window Pane Flake. 150'
Cams - 1ea Offsets
2ea Cams to #3 Camalot
1ea #4 Camalot (last move to the anchor ledge, 5.7 move)
Camhook - just in case - no Regular Hooks
A few thin moves gains you the iconic Window Pane Flake and its slightly awkward C1 goodness. After the Flake a few bolts lead to a decent-sized penji left to easy free climbing or C1 to the belay ledge.

The free climbing variation left is super fast tension-to-bolts-to-easy-french-free or 5.12d.

The Window Pane Flake is the feature that will help you find the Lurking Fear line when looking from the Bridalveil Falls straightway, either before or after your climb.

Pitch 4. 12a or C2. 130'
Cams - 2ea Offset Cams
2ea Cams to #4 Camalot
Hooks
Camhooks
Secure hooking or 5.10 past bolts leads to really fun thin cracks which take you right and then up, gradually widening to #4 right before the belay.
This really cool pitch brings you into the Milky Wave Headwall and a continuous crack system you'll follow until pitch 7. If the first 3 pitches were challenging and you feel beaten down don't worry - it's splitter from here on out!

Pitch 5. 12b or C1. 100'
Cams - 2ea Offsets
2 ea to #3 Camalot, 1ea #4 Camalot
Hooks - optional some folks use a hook near the belay but it's not necessary
Camhooks or Nuts could be helpful if you have fewer small cams, or just need to do one move that you are missing a crucial size in.

Wavy twin 5.11 finger cracks take you up a steep wall - very straightforward pitch. Save 1ea Offsets or small cams for right before the belay.

Pitch 6. 12c or C2. 110'
Cams - 2 ea Offsets
3 ea to #1 Camalot, 1ea #2 and #3
Camhooks and / or thin Nuts useful if you are shorter or don't have lots of small cams
All time Milky Wave splitter crack leads up to a thinner section to an interesting bulge to the belay. Save 1ea Offsets for the last section. I like to link this pitch into the hook traverse at the beginning of pitch 7 and then just belay at the rapppel anchor midway through that pitch. If you do this linking you just clip the pitch 6 anchor and tension over and right - feels super secure and easy moving between the bolts and hooks as opposed to leading right off the belay with your partner staring at you. It's hard to explain why - but this linking makes it easier for the cleaner too - since they're already on the jugs when they get to pitch 6 anchor they just use the rings on the anchor to lower out and follow the bolt/hook traverse.

Pitch 7. 13c or C1. 105'
Cams - 2ea .4 or Yellow Totem to #4 Camalot
1ea #5 Camalot
Hooks - Regular no Camhooks
Fun hook traverse interspersed with many bolts leads to another splitter though wide and slightly awkward crack system.

Pitch 8. 10d or C1.130'
Cams - 2ea .5 Purple Totem or Camalot to #5 Camalot - Can be done with only #4s but if you have the #5s it will make it easier.
The most incredible 10c splitter for folks with Goliath-sized hands. Epically challenging fist to wider crack for the rest of us, or cruiser C1 with your comfy shoes on ;) Save a #3 Camalot for right before the belay

Pitch 9. 5.10 or C1. 110'
Cams - 1ea Offset Cams
2ea to #3 Camalot, 1ea #4 and #5 for right before the belay
Super fun lower-angled splitter crack / flake that makes you feel free like Tommy or Babsi, and the nice belay ledge / stance at the end is welcome after mostly hanging belays since the ledge atop pitch 3. The Pillar of No Despair!

Pitch 10. 5.12 or C2. 110'
Cams - 2ea Offset Cams
2-3 ea to #.75 Green Totem or Camalot
1ea #1 to #3 Camalot
Camhooks and thin Nuts useful
A really beautiful if at times flared or thin shallow corner leads up to a couple reachy moves to the belay. Save 1ea Offset Cams and small Cams for the end of the pitch.

Pitch 11. 13a or C2+. 100'
Cams - 2ea Offset Cams
2-3ea to .75 Green Totem or Camalot
1ea #1 to #3 Camalot
Camhooks
Grappling Hook - can be nice for going over the bulge but is not necessary
A couple Camhooks or 5.12 off the belay lead to a bulge with a bolt. Wild but relatively secure cams and fixed pitons lead to three bolts and to a mostly finger-sized crack that leads to the belay.

Pitch 12. 12c/d or C2 Wild. 95'
Cams - 2ea Offset Cams
2ea to #1 Red Totem or Camalot
Hooks
Wild and fun traversing 5.12 or C2 pitch over and around, with fun easy hooks to bolts that lead to 5.10 free or easy hooks to another traverse to the belay stance - save the two smallest offset cams for right before the belay if you don't like doing easy free moves with rope drag.

Pitch 13. 12b or C1. 140'
Cams - 1ea Offset Cams
2-3 ea to #1 Red Totem or Camalot
1ea #2 and #3 Camalot
The beginning of the lower-angled crack climbing that leads to the summit. A short thin crack that takes bomber offset cams leads to fun cruiser 5.8 with maybe a fragile flake or two to a bulge move to the most glorious 5.3 hand and finger crack to the belay stance. So fun!

Pitch 14. 10d or C2. 130'
Cams - 2-3ea to #1 Red Totem or Camalot
1ea #2 to #5 Camalot
A super fun but slightly tricky pitch. Deal with a few challenges low on the pitch and you'll be rewarded with super fun 5.5 to 5.7 scrambling to the belay; if you're not mindful of rope-drag early the second half of this pitch could be a miserable struggle.

Aid or mantel onto a shelf and walk left for twenty feet to a wide gully. It's best if you can just put a piece in the bottom of the gully and walk back and remove the piece you put at the beginning of the traverse - this will help with rope drag and will allow your cleaner to just walk across a lower ledge to start following the pitch. Back at the gully a couple 5.10 or awkward C2 moves on .5 Totems / Camalot gets you to better cracks and easy cruising. Look for a good spot to put your #5 Camalot above a ledge after the fun cracks that will keep your rope straight for the follower (not necessary if the follower is free climbing only if they are jugging) and will give you the confidence to quest left and around and back up to the spacious belay ledge and its 2 bolts. I like to fix the rope to a piece in a crack on the far right of the ledge because there are a lot of edges on the route - there is a bomber finger-sized crack there - i back the rope up to the two bolts of course.

Pitch 15. 10c or C2. 140'
Cams - All of your cams.
Camhook might be useful in case you don't have the right size thin piece or if you cannot reach a higher, bigger placement - it's never harder than 10a/b at the thin spots.
Awesome but challenging 5.10 or C2 pitch. Some slick rock for the free climbers and few random thin placements for the aid climbers keep things interesting. Def use all your long runners on this pitch, in the zigzag section. Save some fingers to #1 Camalot sizes for the last bit to the belay.

Pitch 16. 10b or C1. 140'
Cams - 2-3ea Black Totem or .2 Camalot to #3 Camalot

Finally the difficult eases to downright pleasant mostly 5.7 with a touch of 5.10 or easy aid - well I did it once too early in the spring running with water and that sucked but usually it's great. A ton of easy 5.5+ free climbing even for the folks wearing approach shoes on this one.

Pitch 17. 11a or C1. 90'
Cams - 2ea .4 or Yellow Totem to #1 Red Totem or Camalot.
2ea #4 and #5 Camalots - can be done with one #5 if you are taller or if you like 11a ow ;)

Short, splitter hands to five inch crack leads to a mantel and easy cruising with a short 5.6 face section before the palatial Thanksgiving Ledge. Fun, quick pitch. Don't miss the anchor on the face to the left of the ledge that allows you to fix your rope straight above the previous belay - don't belay off the bolts in front of the cave.

Pitch 18. 10b or C1. 95'
Cams - 2-3 ea to #3 Camalot
2ea #4 Camalot
Super fun jug / crack/ boulder mantel start leads to splitter twin cracks which you eventually commit to the left one and head into a short strenuous gully. The gully protects well with cams to #4 and after just fifteen to twenty feet you exit left into an epic hand and finger crack to the belay. Def save 1ea cams .5 to #2 Camalot for this last section. Ends on a cool pillar directly above the belayer.

Pitch 19. 5.3 Glory! 135'
Cams - 1ea to #3 Camalot
Fun, juggy featured face leads to a corner with more jugs and cracks, past a cute Limber Pine and eventually right to the chains. You Did It Woohooo!

Location Suggest change

Lurking Fear is on the far left side of El Capitan. Hike to the base of the wall, as you would for the Nose, and then skirt the base of the wall, hiking up the long slope beneath the face. The approach feels long, particularly when carrying a haul bag and comparing it to the Nose. It makes you realize how big El Cap is, as you traverse underneath a lot of rock on your way to Lurking Fear. There is a few hundred feet of 3rd and 4th class ledges to negotiate, shortly before the start of the route. It is probably advisable to haul bags or fix lines on some of these sections. The start of the route is about 100 feet from the corner of the buttress and starts in a left-facing corner.

Protection Suggest change

Double set of nuts, including small nuts. Triple set of cams up to red Camalot and double set of cams to old #4.5 Camalot. A selection of basic hooks, cam hooks and rivet hangers. Can also bring few heads in case any are missing.

Photos

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